1. Check the fuses: Your owner's manual will show the fuel pump fuse location. Make sure it's not blown. Replace it with a fuse of the correct amperage if it is. Don't just jump it with a higher amperage fuse, as this could cause a fire.
2. Check the relay: The fuel pump relay is crucial. Locate it (your owner's manual or online resources can help) and try swapping it with a known good relay of the same type. This is a quick and often effective diagnostic step. Many cars use a generic relay, so you might be able to test with one from another system (if you're comfortable doing so).
3. Check for power at the relay: With the ignition on, use a test light or multimeter to check for power at the relay terminals. You should have power at one terminal (the power source) and power at another when the relay is energized (the output side). Lack of power at the power source terminal points to a wiring problem before the relay.
4. Check power at the fuel pump itself: This requires getting under the car. Locate the fuel pump wiring connector, and, with the ignition on, check for power at the correct wires using a test light or multimeter. If there's no power here, the problem is in the wiring between the relay and the pump. This could be a broken wire, corrosion in a connector, or a faulty wiring harness.
5. Check the inertia switch: Some cars have an inertia switch that cuts power to the fuel pump in a collision. Locate this (usually under the dash or in the engine compartment) and make sure it's not tripped. Push the button to reset it if it is.
6. Check the fuel pump's power wire: Trace the power wire from the fuel pump to the connector, relay and then further back through the fuse and relay circuits. Look carefully for any broken or damaged areas in the wiring harness. A broken or chafed wire is a common culprit.
7. Check the fuel pump wiring connector: Inspect the connector for corrosion or loose connections. Clean or repair as needed.
8. Check the fuel pump itself (the last resort): If you've checked everything above and still have no power at the pump, the pump itself might be faulty (though much less likely without some other indication of a mechanical issue). Testing the pump directly is more advanced and involves removing it; a professional mechanic would typically handle this. Note that a faulty pump may also have internal shorts that could lead to no power.
Safety Precautions:
* Disconnect the negative battery terminal before working on any electrical components. This prevents accidental shorts and shocks.
* Work in a well-ventilated area. Fuel vapors are flammable.
* Use caution when working under the car. Support it properly with jack stands.
* If you're not comfortable working with car electrical systems, take it to a qualified mechanic.
By systematically checking these points, you should be able to pinpoint the reason for the lack of power to your fuel pump. Remember to consult your owner's manual for specific details about your '89 Camaro's fuel system.
