The 25A fuse you found likely covers *both* passenger-side windows (and possibly other circuits). Since neither window is working with that fuse intact, the fuse itself is likely not the problem.
Here's where the troubleshooting should go:
1. Check the fuse visually: Even if it's not blown (not broken or discolored), a weak fuse can still cause intermittent power issues. Replace it with a new 25A fuse of the same type (check the fuse box cover for the type — often slow-blow or mini).
2. Check the power window switch: The switch itself could be faulty. Try spraying some electronic contact cleaner into the switch. If you have access to a multimeter, test for power at the switch's terminals. If there's no power there even with the fuse good, then the problem is upstream of the switch.
3. Check the window motor and regulator: The motor itself or the regulator mechanism in the door could be the issue. This would require taking the door panel off to access these components.
4. Wiring harness: There could be a break or short in the wiring harness running from the fuse box to the passenger-side door. This is more difficult to diagnose and usually requires tracing the wiring.
5. Body Control Module (BCM): In some cases, a faulty BCM can cause issues with the power windows. This requires more advanced diagnostics.
In summary: Don't focus on finding a second fuse. The problem is almost certainly not a missing fuse, but a fault in the switch, motor, regulator, or wiring. Begin with the simplest checks (fuse and switch) before moving on to more involved repairs. If you lack automotive experience, taking it to a mechanic is recommended to avoid damaging the wiring or other components.