* Proper jacking and support: This is crucial for *any* under-car work. Don't just rely on the jack; use jack stands placed securely under the frame rails. Safety first! Consider using ramps to get the vehicle up to a comfortable working height.
* Rust and seized components: On a 2000 Blazer, rust is likely a significant factor. Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, etc.) is your best friend. Liberally apply it to all bolts and connections *days* in advance, if possible. Multiple applications over several hours or even overnight are highly recommended. This will significantly increase your chances of avoiding broken bolts.
* Getting the axle out of the transmission: This is often the toughest part. The axle usually needs to be pulled straight out of the transmission. Sometimes a gentle tapping with a hammer is needed, but be careful not to damage the transmission. A slide hammer can be very helpful here; rent one if you don't own one. Make sure you're pulling straight out and not at an angle.
* Dealing with the ABS tone ring: The passenger-side axle often has an ABS tone ring attached. Be extremely careful not to damage it during removal and installation. If you damage it, you'll need a new one, making the repair much more expensive.
* The tricky nut: The axle nut on the wheel hub is usually very tight. A good impact wrench is recommended. If you don't have one, a breaker bar and a lot of leverage might be needed. Make sure you have the wheel securely held to prevent it from spinning.
* Wheel hub removal: Sometimes the wheel hub itself is stuck. More penetrating oil is your friend here. A puller might be needed to remove the wheel hub from the knuckle.
* Using the correct tools: Having the right tools makes a huge difference. This includes the correct size sockets, wrenches, a ball joint separator (possibly), a pickle fork (use with caution!), an axle puller, and possibly a slide hammer.
Specific to the 2000 Blazer Passenger Side:
* Exhaust interference: The exhaust system might be in the way. You might need to loosen or remove parts of the exhaust to gain enough access.
* Tight spaces: The passenger side is often tighter than the driver's side. Be prepared for some contorting and potentially using extensions on your tools.
Before you start:
* Consult a repair manual: A Haynes or Chilton manual for your specific vehicle will provide detailed instructions and diagrams. This is invaluable.
* Gather all the necessary tools and parts: Don't start the job until you have everything you need.
* Take pictures: Before disassembling anything, take plenty of pictures. This will help you remember how everything goes back together.
Replacing a CV axle is a moderately challenging job. If you're not comfortable working on cars, it's best to have a qualified mechanic do it. Even with experience, broken bolts or damaged parts can add significant time and cost to the repair.
