Tools You'll Need:
* Jack and jack stands (Safety First! Always use jack stands, never rely solely on a jack.)
* Wheel chocks
* Lug wrench
* Socket wrench set (metric)
* Wrenches (metric)
* Pliers
* C-clamp or brake caliper compressor tool
* Brake cleaner
* Wire brush
* Anti-seize lubricant
* New brake pads
* New rotors (highly recommended, but not always strictly necessary)
* Optional: Torque wrench
Procedure:
1. Safety First: Park on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
2. Jack Up and Secure: Jack up the front of the vehicle and securely place it on jack stands. Support the vehicle at the designated jack points (consult your repair manual).
3. Remove Wheel: Remove the lug nuts and carefully take off the wheel.
4. Remove Caliper:
* Locate the caliper mounting bolts: These are usually located on the caliper itself.
* Loosen the bolts: Use a socket wrench to loosen the caliper mounting bolts. They might be stubborn due to rust.
* Remove the caliper: Carefully lift the caliper away from the rotor. It's likely still connected by the brake hose. You may need to carefully support the caliper with a wire or bungee cord to prevent it from hanging by the hose. Do not let the brake hose hang or get twisted; this can damage it.
5. Remove Brake Pads: The brake pads should now be visible. There's usually a retaining clip or pin holding them in place; remove it to release the pads.
6. Inspect and Replace Rotors (Recommended): Inspect the rotors for scoring, grooves, or excessive wear. If they are worn or damaged, replace them. If you are reusing the rotors, clean them thoroughly with a wire brush and brake cleaner.
7. Install New Brake Pads: Carefully install the new brake pads into the caliper. Make sure they slide in smoothly.
8. Reinstall Caliper: Carefully place the caliper back onto the rotor and secure it with the mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to the manufacturer's specified torque (check your repair manual).
9. Compress Pistons: Use a C-clamp or a specialized brake caliper piston compressor tool to compress the caliper pistons. This is necessary to make room for the new, thicker brake pads. Do this slowly and evenly to avoid damage. While compressing, you might have to open the bleeder valve on the caliper to allow fluid to return to the master cylinder. If you do, have a container ready to catch the brake fluid, and later check the master cylinder fluid level and top it off if necessary.
10. Reinstall Wheel: Put the wheel back on and tighten the lug nuts. Don't fully tighten them yet.
11. Lower Vehicle: Carefully lower the vehicle to the ground.
12. Tighten Lug Nuts: Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to ensure even pressure.
13. Repeat for Other Side: Repeat steps 4-12 for the other front wheel.
14. Pump Brakes: Get into the car, pump the brakes several times to ensure the calipers are properly engaging the new pads.
15. Bleed Brakes (Optional but Recommended): Bleeding the brakes helps remove any air that might have entered the system during the process. This is best done by a second person but can be done solo using a one-person bleeder kit. Consult your repair manual for instructions.
16. Test Drive: Carefully test drive the vehicle, paying close attention to the braking performance. If you feel anything unusual, have the brakes checked by a professional immediately.
Important Considerations:
* Brake Fluid is Corrosive: Wear appropriate safety glasses and gloves when working with brake fluid.
* Always Consult Your Repair Manual: This guide provides a general overview. Your vehicle's repair manual will have specific instructions and torque specifications for your '89 Chevy Caprice.
* Professional Help: If you're unsure about any step of this process, it's always best to have a qualified mechanic perform the brake repair. Brake failure is extremely dangerous.
This information is for educational purposes only. I am not responsible for any damage or injury that may result from following these instructions. Always prioritize safety and consult a professional when necessary.
