1. Check the Fuses:
* Locate the fuse box: Your owner's manual will show the location of the fuse box(es). There's usually one under the hood and possibly one inside the car (often under the dash).
* Identify the horn fuse: The manual will also list the fuse ratings and what each fuse protects. Look for the one labeled "horn," "horns," or something similar. It might be a specific amperage (e.g., 10A, 15A).
* Inspect the fuse: Carefully remove the fuse and visually inspect it. Look for a broken filament (a thin wire inside) which indicates a blown fuse. If it's blown, replace it with a fuse of the *same amperage*. Don't use a higher amperage fuse, as this could damage your car's electrical system.
2. Check the Horn Relay:
* Locate the relay: The relay is a small electrical switch that controls the power to the horns. Its location varies by vehicle; consult your owner's manual or a wiring diagram. It's often in the under-hood fuse box or a separate relay center.
* Identify the horn relay: Again, the manual or a wiring diagram is crucial here.
* Test the relay (optional, but helpful): You can often test a relay by swapping it with a similar-looking relay (like one for the headlights, if it's the same amperage). If the horns work after the swap, the original relay is faulty. If you swap a relay and it doesn't work, replace the relay.
3. Check the Horn(s) Itself:
* Access the horn(s): The horns are usually located somewhere in the front of the car, often behind the bumper or grille. You may need to remove some components to reach them.
* Test the horn(s): With the ignition on, use a jumper wire (with insulated ends!) to connect the positive (+) terminal of the horn directly to the positive (+) battery terminal. If the horn works, it confirms the horn itself is good; the problem is elsewhere in the electrical circuit.
4. Check the Wiring:
* Trace the wiring: If the fuse, relay, and horn are all good, the problem lies in the wiring. This is the most difficult part. Use a multimeter to check for continuity in the wiring leading to the horn(s). Look for breaks, corrosion, or loose connections. A wiring diagram is invaluable for this step.
* Look for corrosion: Check the connectors at the horn, the relay, and the steering wheel horn switch for corrosion. Clean them with a wire brush and electrical contact cleaner.
5. Horn Switch (Steering Wheel):
* This is less common, but the horn contact in your steering wheel could be worn or faulty. If you've eliminated all other possibilities, this might be the problem. Replacing the steering wheel (or at least the horn contact assembly) is a more involved repair job and might require professional help.
Important Notes:
* Safety First: Disconnect the negative (-) battery terminal before working on any electrical components.
* Wiring Diagrams: A wiring diagram specific to your 1995 Buick Roadmaster is essential for tracing the wiring. You can find these online (often on forums dedicated to that car model) or at a parts store.
* Professional Help: If you're uncomfortable working with car electrical systems, it's best to take your Roadmaster to a qualified mechanic.
By following these steps, you should be able to diagnose and fix the horn problem on your 1995 Buick Roadmaster. Remember to always prioritize safety and consult your owner's manual and wiring diagrams.
