1. Gather Your Supplies:
* Brake fluid: Use DOT 3 brake fluid (check your owner's manual to confirm). Important: Brake fluid is corrosive. Wear gloves and eye protection. Avoid getting it on paint or other sensitive surfaces.
* Clear tubing: About 3-4 feet long, with a slightly smaller inside diameter than your bleeder valve.
* Wrench: The correct size to fit your bleeder valves (usually 8mm or 10mm).
* Container: To collect the old brake fluid.
* Helper: Someone to pump the brake pedal is essential for efficient bleeding.
* Shop rags: For cleaning up spills.
2. Bleeding Procedure (Two-Person Job):
The correct order for bleeding brakes is crucial to ensure you push the air out efficiently. Start at the furthest wheel from the master cylinder and work your way closer:
1. Right Rear: This is the most likely culprit since you worked on it. Attach the clear tubing to the bleeder valve, submerge the other end in your container of brake fluid. Your helper should firmly pump the brake pedal several times and hold it down. Then, carefully open the bleeder valve with the wrench, allowing fluid to flow. Close the bleeder valve once the flow slows or stops. Your helper should release the brake pedal. Repeat steps 3-4 times until you see no more air bubbles in the tubing.
2. Left Rear: Repeat the process for the left rear brake.
3. Right Front: Repeat the process for the right front brake.
4. Left Front: Repeat the process for the left front brake.
3. Checking the Master Cylinder:
* Fluid Level: Ensure the master cylinder reservoir is always kept full of brake fluid during bleeding. Top it off frequently. A low fluid level will suck in more air.
* Visual Inspection: Carefully inspect the master cylinder for any leaks, cracks, or damage. A damaged master cylinder is a serious safety concern and needs to be replaced.
4. After Bleeding:
* Test the Brakes: With your helper, pump the brake pedal firmly several times. If you have a solid, firm pedal that doesn't go all the way to the floor, you likely successfully bled the brakes.
* Test Drive (Caution): Test drive the vehicle *carefully*. Start slowly, gradually testing the brakes at low speeds before driving normally. If the brakes still feel spongy or require excessive pedal travel after bleeding, there might be a more serious problem.
Troubleshooting If Bleeding Doesn't Work:
* Air in the System: If you still have a spongy pedal after a thorough bleeding, there might be a hidden air leak somewhere in the brake lines. Check all connections carefully.
* Master Cylinder: As mentioned earlier, a faulty master cylinder can cause this issue. If bleeding doesn't solve the problem and you see no visible leaks elsewhere, this should be suspected.
* Wheel Cylinders (Rear) or Calipers (Front): A leaking wheel cylinder (rear brakes) or caliper (front brakes) can introduce air into the system. Inspect them carefully for leaks.
* Proportioning Valve (Possibly): Some vehicles have a proportioning valve that controls brake pressure to the front and rear wheels. If this valve is malfunctioning it can cause issues. This is less likely but should be considered if other steps fail.
* Brake Lines: Check the brake lines for damage, kinks, or rust.
Important Safety Note: If you're not comfortable working on your brakes, take your Ford Explorer to a qualified mechanic. Brake failure is a serious safety hazard. Don't drive the vehicle until you're sure the brakes are functioning correctly.
