Tools you'll likely need:
* Jack and jack stands: Essential for safety. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
* Wheel chocks: To secure the other wheels.
* Lug wrench: To remove the wheels.
* Socket wrench set (metric): You'll need various sizes.
* C-clamp or brake caliper compressor tool: To compress the caliper piston. A C-clamp may work, but a caliper compressor tool is preferred for even pressure.
* Wrench to remove caliper mounting bolts: Size will vary depending on your year and model.
* Torque wrench: To properly tighten bolts to the manufacturer's specifications. Incorrect torque can lead to brake failure.
* Brake cleaner: To clean the caliper and rotor surfaces.
* Penetrating oil (like PB Blaster): To help loosen any rusted bolts.
* Safety glasses and gloves: Always wear safety gear when working on your vehicle.
* New rear brake pads: Make sure you purchase the correct pads for your year, model, and any specific options (like towing package).
* Optional: Brake pad shims and anti-rattle clips: These are often included with new brake pads, but it's good to check.
* Wire brush or sandpaper (fine grit): To clean the caliper mounting surfaces if necessary.
Steps:
1. Safety First: Park on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and chock the front wheels. Use the jack to lift the rear of the truck, and securely place it on jack stands.
2. Remove the Wheel: Remove the lug nuts and carefully remove the wheel.
3. Inspect the Brakes: Before doing anything, inspect the brake rotor for excessive wear, scoring, or damage. Inspect the brake caliper for damage, leaks, or sticking. Check the brake lines and hoses for cracks or damage. If you find any issues, address them before proceeding.
4. Compress the Caliper Piston: Use the C-clamp or caliper compressor tool to compress the caliper piston. You'll need to push the piston back into the caliper bore to make room for the new, thicker brake pads. This is often the most challenging part; applying even pressure is crucial to prevent damage. Some pistons may have a bleed screw that you can open slightly to help the fluid flow back into the reservoir. Be prepared for some brake fluid to come out. Have a rag ready to catch the fluid.
5. Remove the Brake Pads: Once the piston is compressed, you should be able to remove the retaining clips (if any) holding the brake pads in place. Carefully remove the old brake pads.
6. Clean the Caliper and Rotor: Use brake cleaner to thoroughly clean the caliper, rotor, and caliper mounting surfaces. Remove any rust or debris.
7. Install the New Brake Pads: Install the new brake pads, ensuring they are correctly seated. If shims or anti-rattle clips are included, install them as well.
8. Reinstall the Caliper: Reinstall the caliper, ensuring it's correctly aligned and the bolts are tightened to the manufacturer's specified torque.
9. Reinstall the Wheel: Reinstall the wheel and tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to ensure even pressure. Don't overtighten.
10. Lower the Vehicle: Carefully lower the vehicle from the jack stands.
11. Check for Leaks: Inspect for any brake fluid leaks.
12. Test the Brakes: Pump the brake pedal several times to build up pressure. Test the brakes in a safe, open area before driving normally. If you feel anything unusual or if the brake pedal feels spongy, do not drive the vehicle. Have it checked by a professional mechanic immediately.
Important Notes:
* Consult your owner's manual: Your owner's manual will have specific instructions and torque specifications for your vehicle. This is crucial for safety.
* Bleeding the Brakes: While usually not necessary after just changing the pads, if you had to open a bleed screw or suspect air in the lines, you'll need to bleed the brakes properly. This is a more complex procedure, and you should consult a professional if you're not familiar with it.
* Rotor Inspection and Replacement: If the rotors are severely worn or damaged, they'll need to be replaced as well. This often requires specialized tools for machining or the removal of the caliper mounting bracket.
This is a general guide. The specifics may vary depending on the year and model of your F250. Always consult your owner's manual and/or a repair manual specific to your vehicle. If you're not comfortable performing this repair, it's always best to take your truck to a qualified mechanic. Brake safety is paramount.
