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What if the new alternator is not charging your 1990 e150 ford van what can you check?

It's frustrating when you replace an alternator and your 1990 E150 still isn't charging. Here's a breakdown of what to check:

1. Double-Check the Alternator Installation

* Connections:

* Battery Cable: Ensure the positive (+) cable from the battery is securely attached to the alternator's "B+" terminal (or the large, main post).

* Output Cable: The positive (+) wire from the alternator (often red) should be securely connected to the starter solenoid's "S" terminal (or another large post) or directly to the battery positive terminal.

* Field Wire: The smaller wire from the alternator (usually a smaller gauge and a different color like light blue) should be connected to the "F" terminal on the alternator. This is the wire that supplies the alternator's field current.

* Belt Tension: Make sure the serpentine belt is correctly installed and has the proper tension. A loose belt will prevent the alternator from spinning fast enough to generate power.

2. Check the Battery

* Battery Terminals: Clean the battery terminals with a wire brush to ensure a good connection.

* Battery Voltage: With the engine off, check the battery voltage with a multimeter. It should be around 12.5 volts or higher. A weak battery can prevent the alternator from charging properly.

* Battery Age: If the battery is old, it might be unable to accept a charge from the alternator.

3. Check the Charging System Wiring

* Wiring Connections: Inspect all the wires in the charging system for any loose connections, corrosion, or damage.

* Voltage Drops: Use a multimeter to check for voltage drops along the wiring path from the alternator to the battery. There should be minimal voltage drop (ideally less than 0.5 volts) across each connection.

* Fuses and Relays: Inspect the fuses and relays associated with the charging system (check your owner's manual).

4. Test the Alternator Output

* Voltage Test: With the engine running at around 1500 RPM, check the voltage at the alternator's positive terminal (usually the "B+" terminal) with a multimeter. It should be around 13.5 to 14.5 volts. If the voltage is low or fluctuating, the alternator may be faulty, even if it's new.

* Current Test: For a more thorough test, you can connect an ammeter in series between the alternator's output terminal and the battery. A good alternator should show a substantial current output when the engine is running (usually at least 30 amps or more).

5. Other Considerations

* Voltage Regulator: The voltage regulator is an internal part of the alternator that controls its output. If the regulator is faulty, it can prevent the alternator from charging properly. This is a common failure point.

* Ground Connection: A poor ground connection between the alternator and the engine block can cause charging problems. Inspect the ground cable and ensure it's clean and securely fastened.

* Wiring Diagrams: Consult a wiring diagram for your specific vehicle model. It can help you trace the charging system wiring and identify potential issues.

Important Note: If you're not comfortable working with electrical systems, it's best to have a qualified mechanic diagnose and repair the charging system.

Let me know if you have any specific symptoms you are experiencing. I'm here to help!