1. Coil itself is faulty: This is the most likely culprit. The coil's primary winding receives power, and it's supposed to induce a high voltage in the secondary winding to fire the spark plugs. A faulty coil can fail in several ways:
* Internal short: A short within the coil can prevent the high voltage from being generated.
* Open winding: A break in either the primary or secondary winding will stop the voltage from flowing.
* Cracked insulation: Damaged insulation can lead to shorts or arcing, preventing proper operation.
2. Ignition Control Module (ICM) Problem: The ICM (sometimes integrated into the distributor itself on some Honda models, but separate on others from 1992 on) controls the power to the coil. A faulty ICM can prevent the coil from receiving the correct signal to fire. This is less likely if you're *sure* power is getting to the coil itself, but double-checking the ICM's functionality is crucial.
3. Distributor cap and rotor: These components distribute the high voltage from the coil to the spark plugs. Problems here can include:
* Worn rotor: A worn rotor can prevent proper contact and high voltage transfer.
* Cracked or dirty distributor cap: Cracks or carbon buildup inside the distributor cap can cause arcing and prevent proper voltage distribution.
* Poor connection of rotor to cap: Ensure the rotor is securely seated and making proper contact with the cap terminals.
4. Wiring issues: A broken or corroded wire anywhere in the circuit (from the ignition switch to the coil, or between the coil and the distributor) can interrupt the flow of power. Carefully inspect all wiring for damage or loose connections.
5. Pick-up coil within the distributor (if applicable): This coil senses the position of the crankshaft and sends a signal to the ICM or ECU, triggering the coil to fire. A faulty pickup coil will prevent the system from firing. This is more common on older systems.
6. ECU (Engine Control Unit) problems: The ECU controls many aspects of ignition timing. Although less likely to be the direct cause of no output from the coil, a faulty ECU could still be sending the wrong signals. (This is more involved to troubleshoot).
Troubleshooting Steps:
1. Verify power at the coil: Use a multimeter to check for power at the coil's positive terminal with the ignition on. You should have battery voltage (12V) present.
2. Check for power at the coil's negative terminal: You shouldn't have power there normally. If you do, then you have a short to ground.
3. Inspect the distributor cap and rotor: Look for cracks, carbon buildup, or wear.
4. Check the coil's resistance: Use a multimeter to check the resistance of the coil's primary and secondary windings. The values should match the specifications in your Honda's repair manual.
5. Test the ICM (if separate): The testing procedure will depend on the specific model. A multimeter or a specialized tool might be required. Consult your repair manual.
6. Inspect all wiring: Look for any broken, corroded, or loose wires in the ignition system.
Important Note: A 1992 Honda Accord's ignition system is complex. If you're not comfortable working with automotive electrical systems, it's best to consult a qualified mechanic. Improperly diagnosing or repairing the ignition system can lead to further damage. A repair manual specific to your year and model will be invaluable.
