1. Preparation:
* Safety First: Disconnect the battery's negative terminal to prevent accidental short circuits. Wear safety glasses.
* Gather Tools: You'll need a variety of tools depending on what works best for your situation. This might include:
* Socket set: To remove any nuts or bolts holding the slave cylinder in place.
* Pry bar (small and thin): To help carefully separate the line from the fitting. Avoid overly aggressive prying.
* Hammer (small): Potentially to lightly tap on the roll pin.
* Punch (slightly smaller than the roll pin): To help drive out the roll pin.
* Needle-nose pliers: To grip the roll pin if it's partially protruding.
* Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or similar): Apply liberally to the fitting and around the roll pin to loosen things up. Let it soak for a while (ideally overnight).
* Wrench (appropriate size): For the slave cylinder line fitting.
* Rags or shop towels: To catch any spilled fluid.
2. Accessing the Line and Fitting:
* Locate the Slave Cylinder: Identify the slave cylinder on the transmission. The line you're working on will connect to it.
* Examine the Connection: Carefully inspect how the line connects to the fitting on the transmission. Take photos if it helps you visualize the process later.
3. Removing the Line:
* Loosen the Nut (If Applicable): If there's a nut securing the line to the fitting, loosen it carefully using the appropriate wrench. Do not remove it completely yet.
* Penetrating Oil: Re-apply penetrating oil if necessary.
* Gently Pry (with Caution): Using a small, thin pry bar, try to gently separate the line from the fitting. Work slowly and carefully to avoid bending or breaking the line. Apply leverage strategically and avoid excessive force.
* Check for Roll Pin: As you pry, look for the roll pin. It might be partially visible or completely hidden.
4. Removing the Roll Pin:
* Expose the Roll Pin (If Necessary): If you can't see the roll pin, you might need to carefully remove the line's fitting (after loosening the nut fully) to access it.
* Drive Out the Pin: Use a punch slightly smaller than the roll pin and gently tap it out with a hammer. Work from the side the pin protrudes from. If the pin is stubborn, apply more penetrating oil and let it soak. You may need to work the punch from different angles. Avoid hammering too hard as you could damage the transmission housing.
* Remove the Fitting (if needed): Once the roll pin is removed, the fitting should come out with the line, if not you might have to carefully remove the fitting using the correct tool.
5. Post-Removal:
* Inspect the Parts: Inspect the line, fitting, and roll pin for damage.
* Clean the Area: Clean any fluid spills or debris.
Important Considerations:
* Patience is Key: This process often requires patience and persistence. Avoid applying excessive force, which could damage the transmission.
* Professional Help: If you're uncomfortable or unsure about any step, it's best to seek professional help from a mechanic. Damage to the transmission can be costly to repair.
* Replacement Parts: Have replacement parts on hand if necessary (a new line and potentially a new roll pin).
This process is a general guide. The exact procedure may vary slightly depending on the specific configuration of your 1991 Ford Ranger's transmission. Always consult a repair manual specific to your vehicle's year and model for detailed instructions and diagrams.
