1. Check for Obvious Issues:
* Fuel in the Tank: The most basic check! Make sure you actually have fuel in the tank. This sounds obvious, but it's the easiest thing to overlook.
* Fuel Line Connections: Visually inspect all fuel lines from the tank to the carburetor. Look for cracks, leaks, loose connections, or kinks. Pay close attention to the connection at the tank and at the carburetor.
2. Test the Fuel Pump Directly (Most Crucial):
* Listen for the Pump: With the ignition key turned ON (but engine NOT running), have someone crank the engine over while you listen carefully near the fuel pump. You should hear a whirring or humming sound. If you hear *nothing*, the pump is likely the problem. If you hear a *weak* or intermittent whir, it might be failing.
* Pressure Test (Best Method): The most definitive test. You'll need a fuel pressure gauge and a fitting to adapt it to the fuel line. Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor. Connect the gauge. Have someone crank the engine over. You should see a pressure reading. The exact pressure specification will depend on your carburetor and fuel pump; consult a service manual or parts catalog for your specific setup. A lack of pressure indicates a pump failure or another blockage further upstream.
3. Check the Fuel Filter:
* Location: Find the fuel filter (it may be inline somewhere between the tank and the pump or the pump and the carb).
* Inspection: Check it for clogs or damage. If it's very dirty, it could restrict fuel flow even if the pump is working. Replace it as a preventative measure if it looks questionable.
4. Check the Mechanical Fuel Pump (If Applicable):
If your '65 327 has a mechanical fuel pump (most likely), the above steps are the most important. Here are some additional specific steps for mechanical pumps:
* Pump Rod Movement: With the engine off, check to see if the pump arm is moving freely up and down as you rotate the engine by hand (using a wrench on the crankshaft). A stuck or broken arm indicates a problem.
* Pump Diaphragm (Advanced): This requires removing the fuel pump, which is a more advanced procedure. A torn or damaged diaphragm will prevent the pump from working correctly.
5. If the Pump Is Working, Investigate Further:
If you've confirmed the pump is functioning and there's no obvious blockage in the fuel lines or filter, you need to investigate further:
* Clogged Fuel Line (Inside): Though you visually inspected the lines, there could be internal blockage. Consider removing and clearing the lines or using compressed air (carefully) to clear any debris.
* Tank Issues: There might be sediment or other debris at the bottom of the fuel tank restricting fuel flow. You might need to drop the tank to inspect or clean it.
* Pick-up Tube: In the fuel tank, the pickup tube could be clogged or broken. This requires dropping the fuel tank for inspection.
Important Note: Always disconnect the battery's negative terminal before working on any fuel system components. Gasoline is highly flammable.
If you're not comfortable performing these checks yourself, take your Corvette to a qualified mechanic specializing in classic cars. They will have the tools and experience to diagnose the problem quickly and efficiently.
