Here's a breakdown of why it's *not* the injectors directly causing the no-crank condition, and what's more likely:
* The injectors are *responding* to a signal: The pulsing injectors indicate the PCM is receiving signals from the crankshaft position sensor (CKP), camshaft position sensor (CMP), and other sensors. If there were a major problem with the injector circuit, you'd likely see *no* pulsing.
* The No-Crank Problem: The most likely culprits for a no-crank situation with fuel pressure and ignition firing are:
* Starter Motor: This is the most common cause. The starter is responsible for engaging the engine's flywheel to get it rotating. It could be failing, having a bad connection, or lacking sufficient power (low battery voltage). Test the starter directly using a jumper wire from the battery (with extreme caution!)
* Battery/Charging System: A weak or dead battery won't provide enough power to crank the engine. Check the battery voltage. Low voltage, even with a seemingly good battery, could also indicate a problem with the alternator.
* Neutral Safety Switch: This switch prevents the starter from engaging unless the transmission is in Park or Neutral. A faulty switch will prevent cranking.
* Ignition Switch: This switch controls the flow of power to the starter. A worn or broken ignition switch will prevent the starter from receiving power.
* Wiring and Connections: Loose, corroded, or damaged wiring in the starting circuit could interrupt the current flow to the starter. Inspect all wiring and connections related to the starter, battery, and ignition switch.
* Solenoid: The starter solenoid is an electromagnet that engages the starter motor. A faulty solenoid won't allow the starter to engage.
In short: The pulsing injectors are a red herring. Focus your troubleshooting efforts on the starting system. Check the battery voltage, inspect the starter motor and its connections, and examine the neutral safety switch and ignition switch. A multimeter will be a very valuable tool for this diagnosis.
