1. Identify the Specific Problem:
* No crank, no click: The engine doesn't even try to turn over. This points to a problem before the starter motor.
* Clicking sound: A single or repeated clicking sound when you turn the key suggests a low battery, bad connections, or a failing starter solenoid.
* Engine cranks but doesn't start: The starter turns the engine, but it won't fire. This points to a fuel, spark, or computer problem.
* Intermittent starting: Sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn't. This is often a sign of a loose connection, corroded terminal, or a failing component.
2. Basic Checks (Do these FIRST):
* Battery: Check the battery voltage with a multimeter. A fully charged battery should read around 12.6 volts. If it's low, charge or replace it. Also check the battery terminals for corrosion and clean them if necessary.
* Battery Cables: Inspect the battery cables for damage, corrosion, or loose connections. Clean or replace as needed. Pay close attention to the ground cable connection to the engine block. A poor ground is a common cause of starting problems.
* Ignition Switch: Try wiggling the key in the ignition while turning it. If the problem is intermittent and improves with key manipulation, the ignition switch may be faulty.
3. If you have No Crank, No Click:
* Ignition Switch: Test the ignition switch for power continuity using a multimeter. This requires a wiring diagram.
* Neutral Safety Switch (Automatic Transmission): Make sure the transmission is in Park (or Neutral for a manual). A faulty neutral safety switch prevents the starter from engaging.
* Starter Solenoid: This is a relay that activates the starter motor. You might be able to bypass it (carefully!) to test if it's the culprit – but only if you're comfortable with automotive electrical systems. Improper bypassing can damage your car.
* Starter Motor: This is the motor that turns the engine over. Testing requires more advanced electrical skills and tools.
4. If you have Cranking but No Start:
* Fuel:
* Fuel pump: Listen for the fuel pump whirring for a second or two when you turn the key to the "on" position (before cranking). If you don't hear it, the fuel pump relay or pump itself might be faulty.
* Fuel filter: A clogged fuel filter can restrict fuel flow.
* Fuel pressure: This requires a fuel pressure gauge to measure the pressure at the fuel rail.
* Spark:
* Spark plugs: Check the spark plugs for wear and fouling. Replace if necessary.
* Spark plug wires: Inspect for cracks or damage.
* Ignition coil: The ignition coil provides the high voltage needed for sparking. Testing requires a multimeter or a spark tester.
* Distributor (if applicable): If your Aspire has a distributor, check the cap and rotor for wear and corrosion.
* Computer/Sensors: A faulty crankshaft position sensor (CKP), camshaft position sensor (CMP), or other sensors can prevent the engine from starting. Diagnosing these usually requires an OBD-II scanner to read trouble codes.
Important Considerations:
* Wiring Diagram: A wiring diagram for your specific 1997 Ford Aspire is extremely helpful for tracing electrical circuits and testing components. You can often find these online through repair manuals or forums dedicated to Ford vehicles.
* Safety: Disconnect the negative battery cable before working on any electrical components.
* Professional Help: If you're not comfortable working with automotive electrical systems, it's best to take your Aspire to a qualified mechanic. Improper repairs can lead to further damage.
This guide provides a starting point. Remember to thoroughly document your findings as you troubleshoot to help pinpoint the problem. Good luck!
