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When my 1995 Ford Aerostar 3.0L distributor equipped was running suddenly quit cranks but no start even after replacing cap rotor ignition module spraying starting fluid straight into throttle body?

Since your 1995 Ford Aerostar cranks but won't start, even after replacing the cap, rotor, ignition module, and using starting fluid, the problem likely isn't in the ignition system itself. The starting fluid test indicates that fuel *isn't* the primary issue (though we'll circle back to this), meaning the problem lies elsewhere. Here's a breakdown of likely culprits:

* Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP): This sensor is crucial. It tells the computer the crankshaft's position to time the ignition correctly. A faulty CKP sensor prevents the engine from firing, even with spark. This is a very common culprit for no-start conditions where the engine cranks.

* Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP): Similar to the CKP sensor, the CMP sensor tells the computer the camshaft's position. A faulty CMP sensor can also prevent the engine from firing. The severity of the failure can vary.

* Fuel Pump: While the starting fluid test suggested a fuel problem is unlikely, the pump itself might be weak or failing entirely. The fluid helps bypass the pump momentarily, causing a temporary start. Check fuel pressure at the fuel rail. This requires a fuel pressure gauge.

* Fuel Pump Relay or Fuse: The pump may be getting power intermittently. Check the relay and fuse for the fuel pump. A simple swap with a known good relay is a quick test.

* Ignition Switch: While less likely given you've already replaced components, a failing ignition switch might not be sending sufficient power to the system.

* Computer (PCM): Although rare, a faulty PCM (Powertrain Control Module) can cause a no-start condition. This is harder to diagnose and usually requires professional help.

Troubleshooting Steps:

1. Check Fuel Pressure: This is the most important next step. Rent or borrow a fuel pressure gauge and check the pressure at the fuel rail. The specification for your engine should be readily available online. Low or no pressure confirms a fuel delivery problem.

2. Check for Spark at the Plugs: Even though you've replaced ignition components, verify you're getting spark at each spark plug. A weak spark could still be an issue even with new parts. Use a spark tester or carefully check for spark with a grounded plug wire and a gap to a grounded metal surface. Avoid touching the spark plug while it's in this position.

3. Check CKP and CMP Sensors: If possible, check these sensors for codes using an OBD-II scanner. You can also test for continuity, but this typically requires a multimeter and some technical knowledge. Visual inspection for obvious damage is a starting point.

4. Inspect Wiring and Connectors: Check for any corroded, damaged, or loose wiring, especially in the area of the sensors and ignition system.

5. Test the Fuel Pump Relay and Fuse: Use the steps mentioned above.

If you're not comfortable working on your vehicle's electrical system, it's best to take it to a mechanic. Incorrect diagnosis can lead to further damage. The cost of a professional diagnosis is likely less than the cost of replacing numerous parts without knowing the actual problem.