Before You Begin:
* Safety First: Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent electrical shorts.
* Gather Tools: You'll need a socket set (metric), wrenches (metric), a bleed kit for the clutch system, brake cleaner, rags, a new clutch master cylinder, and possibly a new clutch line depending on its condition.
* Vehicle Preparation: Park on a level surface, engage the parking brake firmly.
Steps (General Outline - Consult your repair manual for specifics):
1. Locate the Clutch Master Cylinder: It's usually mounted on the firewall, near the clutch pedal. Your repair manual will show the exact location.
2. Drain Fluid: Open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder (located at the transmission) to allow fluid to escape as you work. This helps to prevent air getting into the system. Have a container ready to catch the old fluid.
3. Disconnect Components:
* Clutch Line: Carefully disconnect the clutch line from the master cylinder. You'll likely need a wrench. Be prepared for some fluid leakage.
* Vacuum Line (if applicable): Some models have a vacuum line connected to the master cylinder. Disconnect it carefully.
* Other Connections: Disconnect any other linkages or connectors attached to the master cylinder.
4. Remove the Master Cylinder: This often involves removing bolts holding it to the firewall. There might be a retaining clip or other fasteners. Your manual will detail this.
5. Clean the Mounting Area: Thoroughly clean the mounting area on the firewall with brake cleaner to remove any dirt or old fluid.
6. Install the New Master Cylinder: Install the new master cylinder, ensuring it's correctly aligned. Tighten the mounting bolts to the manufacturer's specified torque (found in your repair manual).
7. Reconnect Components: Reconnect the clutch line, vacuum line (if applicable), and any other previously disconnected components.
8. Bleed the Clutch System: This is crucial to remove any air from the hydraulic system. Use your bleed kit and follow the instructions carefully. This typically involves opening the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder while someone presses and holds the clutch pedal. You'll need to repeat this process until no more air bubbles appear in the fluid.
9. Check Fluid Level: Once the bleeding is complete, check and top off the clutch fluid reservoir.
10. Test the Clutch: Start the engine and test the clutch pedal. It should feel firm and have a normal operating range.
Important Notes:
* Brake Fluid is Corrosive: Use appropriate safety glasses and gloves when handling brake fluid.
* Dot 3 or Dot 4 Fluid: Use the correct type of brake fluid specified in your owner's manual.
* Torque Specifications: Use a torque wrench to tighten bolts to the correct specifications. Over-tightening can damage the master cylinder or its mounting points.
* Professional Help: If you're uncomfortable with any of these steps, it's best to consult a qualified mechanic. This job is more complex than it sounds and improperly done can lead to expensive repairs.
Remember, this is a simplified overview. Always refer to a repair manual specific to your 1994 Ford Probe GT before attempting this repair. The manual will provide detailed instructions, diagrams, and torque specifications necessary for a successful and safe repair.
