* Weak or Failing Starter: This is a very common cause. Even though the engine cranks eventually, a weakening starter motor struggles to initially engage the flywheel. The multiple key turns may be overcoming some internal resistance before it finally grabs. Have a mechanic test the starter motor's operation and draw. They can often test this without removal.
* Bad Starter Solenoid: The solenoid is the electrical switch that connects the battery power to the starter motor. A failing solenoid might not always make a good connection on the first attempt, requiring several tries to finally engage. Testing the solenoid is usually straightforward, even for someone with some DIY experience. A multimeter is needed to check voltage.
* Faulty Ignition Switch: The ignition switch itself could be failing. It's responsible for sending power to various components, including the starter. If it's worn or corroded, it might not reliably make contact on the first attempt. This would require replacing the ignition switch.
* Corrosion in Electrical Connections: Check all battery cables and connections (positive and negative). Look for corrosion, looseness, or poor contact. Clean any corroded terminals thoroughly with a wire brush and apply dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion. Also, check the connections at the starter motor and the solenoid.
* Neutral Safety Switch: This switch prevents the car from starting unless it's in Park or Neutral. A failing neutral safety switch might not be making a reliable connection, causing intermittent starting problems.
* Low Fuel Pump Pressure: Less likely, but possible. The engine might crank but won't start because it's not getting sufficient fuel pressure. Check fuel pressure. (This is more involved and requires specialized tools.)
Troubleshooting Steps:
1. Check Battery Cables & Connections: Start with the easiest and cheapest solution. Clean terminals thoroughly.
2. Listen Carefully: When you turn the key, listen closely. Does the starter engage weakly or make a clicking sound (Solenoid or starter)? A clicking sound often indicates low voltage, a bad solenoid or worn starter motor.
3. Have the Starter Tested: This is the most likely culprit given your description.
4. Inspect the Ignition Switch: It's more difficult to test, but visual inspection for corrosion or damage can be done.
5. Check the Neutral Safety Switch: This is relatively easy to check, especially if you have a multimeter.
Recommendation:
Since you've already replaced the battery and ignition module, it's highly probable the issue lies within the starting system itself. Take it to a qualified mechanic if you're not comfortable testing the starter, solenoid, or ignition switch yourself. They have the tools and experience to quickly diagnose the problem. Attempting more complex repairs without the right knowledge or tools could potentially cause more damage.
