What you *can* do is check and possibly address these components if you're experiencing clutch problems:
1. Clutch Fluid Level: Check the reservoir for the clutch master cylinder (often near the brake master cylinder). Low fluid indicates a leak somewhere in the hydraulic system (master cylinder, slave cylinder, lines, etc.). Adding fluid is a temporary fix; a leak needs to be addressed.
2. Clutch Master Cylinder: This is the component you press with your foot. A failing master cylinder might not build up enough pressure, leading to a high clutch pedal, or a spongy pedal. It often needs replacement if faulty.
3. Clutch Slave Cylinder: This component is located at the transmission, and it actuates the clutch itself. A leaking or failing slave cylinder will cause similar problems to a failing master cylinder. It, too, requires replacement.
4. Hydraulic Lines and Hoses: Inspect the lines for leaks, kinks, or damage. A leak anywhere in the system will reduce pressure and impair clutch operation.
5. Clutch Disc and Pressure Plate (Internal): These parts wear out over time. A slipping clutch (engine revs without the car speeding up), a hard-to-engage clutch, or a clutch that engages too high or too low in the pedal travel are all signs of internal clutch wear. This requires removing the transmission to replace these components – a major job.
In short, there's no clutch adjustment. If your clutch isn't working correctly, you need to diagnose the problem using the points above. Start with the easiest (fluid level) and work your way to the more involved repairs. If you're not comfortable with car repair, take it to a mechanic. Replacing the master or slave cylinder is relatively straightforward for someone mechanically inclined, but replacing the clutch disc and pressure plate is a much more extensive job.
