Here's a general overview of the process. Specific steps and tools may vary slightly depending on your exact rear end configuration. Always consult a repair manual specific to your vehicle year and model for precise instructions and torque specifications.
I. Preparation:
1. Safety First: Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Use jack stands, not just a jack, to support the vehicle securely. Wear safety glasses and gloves.
2. Gather Tools & Parts: You'll need a variety of tools, including:
* Wheel chocks
* Jack and jack stands
* Axle stands (crucial for supporting the rear axle)
* Socket set (metric) with various sizes, including deep sockets
* Wrenches (metric)
* Bearing puller (specific type for rear axle bearings)
* Bearing race installer (may be a drift and hammer, or a specialized tool)
* Torque wrench (essential for correct tightening)
* Hammer (brass or nylon is preferred to avoid damage)
* Penetrating oil
* New wheel bearings (get the correct part number for your vehicle)
* New axle seals
* New crush sleeves (or shims, depending on your setup)
* Clean rags
* Grease
* Possibly a rear axle carrier bearing preload tool (depending on your comfort level & the type of bearings)
II. Removal:
1. Remove the Wheels and Tires: Obvious, but essential.
2. Remove the Axle Flanges (Axle Shafts): This often involves removing brake calipers, rotor, and possibly cotter pins and castle nuts on the axle ends. You might need to support the axle shafts with a helper while you remove the nuts.
3. Remove the Rear Axle Housing: This involves removing the U-bolts holding the axle housing to the vehicle's frame, carefully lowering the axle assembly. You may need to disconnect other components (like brake lines or shocks) depending on your specific vehicle.
4. Remove the Differential Cover: Drain the differential fluid first.
5. Remove the Axle Bearings: This is where the bearing puller is essential. Use caution and work methodically to avoid damaging the axle housing.
6. Remove the Old Races: These will likely need to be carefully pried or driven out.
III. Installation:
1. Install New Races: Use the race installer to carefully seat the new races.
2. Install New Bearings: Carefully install the new bearings onto the axles.
3. Install the Crush Sleeves/Shims: This is CRITICAL for proper bearing preload. The crush sleeves are compressed when the axle is tightened, setting the correct bearing preload. Getting this wrong can cause premature bearing failure or damage. If your axle uses shims, carefully measure and choose the correct thickness. A dial indicator may be necessary.
4. Reinstall the Axle Flanges: Tighten the axle nuts to the manufacturer's specified torque.
5. Reinstall Axle Assembly: Re-assemble everything in reverse order of removal. Carefully torque all bolts and nuts to the manufacturer's specifications. This is crucial to prevent leaks and premature wear.
6. Re-fill Differential: Use the correct type and amount of differential fluid specified for your rear end.
IV. Post-Installation:
1. Check for Leaks: Inspect all seals and connections for leaks.
2. Test Drive: Test drive the vehicle carefully to check for proper operation and listen for any unusual noises.
3. Re-check Torque: After a short test drive re-check the torque on the axle nuts.
Again, this is a simplified overview. This job is best left to experienced mechanics unless you have extensive experience working on rear axles. Incorrect procedures can lead to serious damage and potential injury. A detailed repair manual specific to your 1997 Chevy truck is absolutely necessary, as variations exist between models and years. Remember safety first!
