* Burned-out motor: The most straightforward explanation is that the motor itself has burned out. This could be due to age, overuse, or a power surge.
* Blown fuse or faulty circuit breaker: The power supply to the motor might be interrupted. Check your vehicle's fuse box (usually under the hood or in the dashboard) for a blown fuse related to the trunk release. Some vehicles of this era might use a circuit breaker instead of a fuse.
* Faulty wiring: Wires can fray, corrode, or become disconnected over time, especially in areas subject to movement like the trunk lid area. Check the wiring harness leading to the motor for any damage. Look for broken wires, loose connections, or corrosion.
* Switch failure: The trunk release switch (either the interior button or the key cylinder) might have failed. Try all release methods to see if one works, helping pinpoint the problem area.
* Damaged or stuck linkage: The motor might be working, but the mechanical linkage connecting it to the trunk latch might be broken, bent, or jammed. This would prevent the latch from engaging even if the motor is functioning. You'll need to inspect this manually (usually involves accessing the trunk latch mechanism from the inside of the trunk, sometimes requiring some interior panel removal).
* Vacuum leak (if applicable): While less common in purely electric trunk release systems, some cars of that era used vacuum systems to assist or control the trunk release. A leak in the vacuum lines could prevent the trunk from opening or closing.
* Computer module issues (less likely): In some cases, a faulty body control module (BCM) or other related computer could prevent the trunk motor from functioning. This is less likely than the other causes, but possible.
Troubleshooting Steps:
1. Check the fuse/circuit breaker: This is the easiest and quickest thing to check first.
2. Test the trunk release switch(es): Try both the interior button and the key release (if applicable).
3. Listen for motor sounds: When you activate the release, can you hear *any* noise from the trunk area (a click, hum, or whirring)? This can indicate whether the motor itself is getting power.
4. Manually check the trunk latch mechanism: Access the latch from inside the trunk (you may need to remove some interior panels) and see if it's jammed or if the linkage is broken or disconnected.
5. Inspect the wiring: Carefully examine the wiring harness for any visible damage.
If you're not comfortable performing these checks yourself, it's best to take your car to a qualified mechanic. They'll have the experience and tools to diagnose and repair the problem efficiently.
