1. Preparation (The "Planning" Phase – often skipped):
* Gather Tools: This is where the "borrowing" begins. He'd likely round up a jack, jack stands (hopefully rated high enough!), a breaker bar (possibly a cheater bar extension too), various sockets and wrenches (metric, of course), a pickle fork (for ball joints, maybe a ball joint separator if he's feeling fancy), a pry bar, possibly a slide hammer, penetrating oil (PB Blaster is the king), and a good flashlight. A shop manual would be helpful but likely replaced by YouTube videos and forum posts.
* Parts: He'd probably source a used rack and pinion from a junkyard, hoping it's in better shape than the one being replaced. New ones are expensive. He might also grab new tie rod ends, boots, and potentially a new power steering pressure hose if it looks suspect.
2. Disassembly (The "Brute Force" Phase):
* Suspension Removal: The front suspension needs to come apart. This involves unbolting the control arms, likely wrestling with rusted bolts using penetrating oil and impact wrench (if available, otherwise a lot of elbow grease). He might use the pickle fork or ball joint separator to separate the ball joints from the steering knuckles.
* Steering Linkage Disconnection: The tie rod ends need to be disconnected from the steering knuckles and the rack itself. This often requires a tie rod separator tool, but a determined shade-tree mechanic might fashion something from a large C-clamp or heavy-duty pipe wrench.
* Rack Removal: This is the tricky part. The rack is bolted to the subframe. Expect lots of rusted bolts. Penetrating oil will be his best friend. He'll use the breaker bar and likely a cheater bar for leverage, possibly employing creative leverage points to break loose stubborn bolts. He might even resort to heat (carefully!). Once loose, the rack needs to be maneuvered out – it’s tight quarters.
3. Installation (The "Hope for the Best" Phase):
* Installation is the reverse of removal: He'll bolt the new (or used) rack and pinion into place, carefully aligning everything. He’ll likely tighten things progressively, ensuring everything is aligned properly.
* Bleeding the System: Air in the power steering system is a common problem. He’ll likely use a procedure found on a forum or YouTube, involving turning the steering wheel lock-to-lock while someone adds power steering fluid.
4. Reassembly and Testing (The "Fingers Crossed" Phase):
* Reconnect everything: Reattach the tie rod ends, control arms, etc., torquing bolts to (hopefully) vaguely correct specifications.
* Alignment: This is critical but often overlooked by shade-tree mechanics. A proper alignment is necessary to prevent tire wear and ensure safe handling. He might skip this part (bad idea) or try to do a "crude" alignment by adjusting the tie rods.
* Test Drive: A cautious test drive is in order. Listen for unusual noises (grinding, knocking) and check for fluid leaks.
Shade-Tree Specifics:
* MacGyvering: Expect creative solutions using readily available materials.
* Limited Tooling: He'll likely make do with whatever tools are at hand, possibly borrowing or renting specific specialized ones only if absolutely necessary.
* Trial and Error: Expect some setbacks, mistakes, and possibly a few choice words.
* Relying on Experience (or Lack Thereof): His success will depend on his prior mechanical experience and his ability to interpret online resources and advice.
In short, a shade-tree mechanic's approach would be less precise and efficient than a professional shop's, but if done carefully and with a bit of luck, they could successfully replace the rack and pinion. However, the risk of damage to other components or even injury is significantly higher. This job is far from beginner-friendly, even for someone with experience.
