I. Tools and Materials You'll Need:
* Wheel Chocks: Absolutely essential for safety.
* Jack and Jack Stands: Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
* Lug Wrench: To remove the wheels.
* Socket Wrench Set: Metric sockets are required. You'll need various sizes depending on your specific caliper and rotor bolts.
* Ratchet and Extensions: To reach tight spots.
* Brake Caliper Piston Compressor Tool: Essential for compressing the caliper piston to make space for the new brake pads. A C-clamp *can* be used, but a purpose-built tool is safer and easier.
* Wrench for Caliper Bolts: Likely a 14mm or 15mm.
* Wrench for Brake Line Bleeder Valve: Usually a small 8mm or 10mm.
* New Brake Pads: Make sure you get the correct pads for your vehicle's front and rear brakes.
* New Brake Rotors (optional): Inspect your rotors carefully. If they're grooved, warped, or excessively thin, replace them. Resurfacing may be an option but is less ideal than replacement.
* Brake Cleaner: To clean the calipers, rotors, and pads before installation.
* Penetrating Oil (like PB Blaster): Helps loosen stuck caliper bolts.
* Gloves: Keep your hands clean.
* Shop Rags or Paper Towels: For cleaning.
* Torque Wrench (Highly Recommended): To properly tighten the caliper bolts and lug nuts to the manufacturer's specifications (found in your owner's manual).
II. Procedure (for front brakes; rear brakes are similar but may have different components):
1. Safety First: Engage the parking brake, chock the rear wheels securely, and jack up the front of the vehicle. Place it on jack stands before proceeding with any work under the vehicle.
2. Remove the Wheel: Loosen the lug nuts slightly *before* jacking up the vehicle. Once it's on jack stands, remove the lug nuts completely and take off the wheel.
3. Inspect the Brakes: Examine the brake pads for wear. Replace if worn below the minimum thickness (check your owner's manual or the pad itself). Inspect the rotors for scoring, grooves, or excessive wear.
4. Remove the Caliper: Locate the caliper bolts and use your wrench and penetrating oil (if needed) to remove them. Support the caliper with a wire or bungee cord to prevent it from hanging by the brake line.
5. Compress the Caliper Piston: Use your piston compressor tool to carefully compress the piston back into the caliper. This creates space for the new, thicker brake pads.
6. Remove the Old Brake Pads: The pads should slide out easily. Clean the caliper bracket thoroughly with brake cleaner.
7. Install the New Brake Pads: Slide the new pads into the caliper bracket.
8. Reinstall the Caliper: Mount the caliper back onto the bracket, and carefully tighten the caliper bolts to the correct torque specification (consult your owner's manual).
9. Reinstall the Wheel: Tighten the lug nuts finger-tight, then lower the vehicle to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts to the specified torque using your torque wrench.
10. Repeat for the Other Side: Follow steps 2-9 for the other front wheel.
III. Bleeding the Brakes (Important):
After replacing brake pads or working on the brake system, it's crucial to bleed the brakes to remove any air that may have entered the lines. This is best done with a helper, using a brake bleeder kit. Refer to your owner's manual or a repair manual for specific instructions on bleeding your vehicle's brakes. Improperly bled brakes are extremely dangerous.
IV. Rear Brakes:
The rear brakes on a 2008 Town & Country might be drum brakes or disc brakes (depending on trim level). The process for drum brakes is different and more complex than disc brakes, often requiring specialized tools. Again, consult a repair manual for specific instructions.
V. Disclaimer:
This is a simplified guide. Always refer to a repair manual specific to your 2008 Chrysler Town & Country for detailed instructions, torque specifications, and safety precautions. Incorrectly performed brake work can be extremely dangerous. If you are not comfortable with this task, seek professional help from a qualified mechanic.
