Tools You'll Need:
* Jack and jack stands (crucial for safety!)
* Wheel chocks
* Lug wrench
* Socket wrench with appropriate sockets (likely metric)
* C-clamp or caliper piston compressor tool
* Wheel bearing grease (optional, for repacking if needed)
* Hammer (rubber mallet preferred)
* Penetrating lubricant (like PB Blaster)
* Wire brush or sandpaper
* Clean rags
Procedure:
1. Safety First: Park on a level surface, engage the parking brake firmly, and chock the rear wheels. Raise the front of the truck using the jack and securely support it on jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
2. Remove the Wheel: Remove the lug nuts from the wheel you're working on. Then, carefully remove the wheel and set it aside.
3. Remove the Caliper:
* Optional: Apply penetrating lubricant to the caliper bolts to help loosen them.
* Locate the caliper mounting bolts. They are usually on the back side of the caliper.
* Unscrew the bolts and carefully remove the caliper. You may need to gently pry it away from the rotor.
* Important: Support the caliper with a wire or bungee cord to prevent it from hanging by the brake line. This prevents stressing or damaging the brake line.
4. Compress the Caliper Piston: The caliper piston needs to be compressed to allow the new rotor to fit. Use a C-clamp or a specialized caliper piston compression tool. Turn the piston slowly and evenly to avoid damaging the piston seal.
5. Remove the Rotor: The rotor should now be free to slide off the wheel studs. If it's stuck, gently tap it from the back with a rubber mallet. Avoid damaging the wheel studs. Sometimes, a little bit of penetrating lubricant on the rotor's mounting surface can help.
6. Clean and Inspect: Clean the wheel hub and mating surface of the rotor. Use a wire brush or sandpaper to remove any rust or debris.
7. Install New Rotor (Reverse Order): Once the old rotor is removed and the hub is clean, install the new rotor. This is the reverse of the removal process.
8. Reassemble: Reinstall the caliper, ensuring it's properly seated. Tighten the caliper bolts to the manufacturer's specified torque. Reinstall the wheel and tighten the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle.
9. Torque Lug Nuts: Make sure to torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer's specified torque using a torque wrench.
10. Check Brake Fluid Level: After reinstalling the caliper, check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. Top off as needed.
11. Bleed Brakes (if necessary): In some cases, you may need to bleed the brakes to remove any air introduced during the process. This is best done with a helper.
Important Considerations:
* Rust and Corrosion: On older vehicles like a 1994 F-150, rust and corrosion can make this process more difficult. Penetrating lubricant is your friend!
* Torque Specifications: Always refer to your owner's manual or a repair manual for the correct torque specifications for all bolts. Incorrect torque can lead to serious problems.
* Brake System: Working on your brake system requires attention to detail and safety. If you are uncomfortable performing this task, take it to a qualified mechanic.
This is a general guide; variations may exist. Always prioritize safety and consult your vehicle's specific repair manual for detailed instructions and torque specifications. If you're not comfortable working on your brakes, it's best to have a qualified mechanic perform the repair.
