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How do you fix a blown head gasket 1997 Ford Probe?

Fixing a blown head gasket on a 1997 Ford Probe is a major repair job, best left to someone experienced with engine work. It's not a simple task and requires specialized tools and knowledge. However, if you're determined to do it yourself, be prepared for a significant time commitment and potential for further damage if you're not careful.

Here's a breakdown of the process, but I strongly recommend taking your vehicle to a qualified mechanic:

1. Diagnosis:

* Confirm the blown head gasket: Don't assume it's a blown head gasket without proper diagnosis. Symptoms can mimic other issues. Look for:

* White smoke from the exhaust (indicates coolant burning)

* Milky oil (coolant in the oil)

* Loss of coolant without visible leaks

* Low compression in one or more cylinders

* Bubbles in the radiator when the engine is running

* Sweet smell (coolant) in the exhaust

* Pressure test the cooling system: This is crucial to confirm a leak.

* Compression test: This helps determine if the head gasket is the culprit and which cylinders are affected.

2. Parts and Tools:

* New head gasket: Get a high-quality gasket specific to your Probe's engine (likely a Mazda KL-ZE V6 or a smaller 4-cylinder).

* Head bolts (or studs): These are often torque-to-yield and should be replaced.

* New head gasket sealant (if required): Follow the gasket manufacturer's instructions.

* Engine degreaser: To clean the engine bay before disassembly.

* Socket set, wrenches, torque wrench: You'll need a comprehensive set of tools.

* Jack stands, ramps: To safely lift the vehicle.

* Engine hoist (highly recommended): Removing and reinstalling the cylinder head is much easier with an engine hoist.

* Drain pan: For collecting fluids.

* Repair manual: A factory service manual or a Haynes/Chilton manual is essential.

* Clean rags and shop towels: To keep things clean.

3. Repair Process (General Steps – Consult your repair manual for specifics):

* Disconnect the battery: Safety first!

* Drain the coolant and oil: Dispose of them properly.

* Remove accessory components: This includes belts, pulleys, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and other components that obstruct access to the cylinder head.

* Remove the cylinder head: This is the most labor-intensive part and requires carefully removing bolts in the correct sequence. Pay close attention to how things come apart for reassembly.

* Inspect the cylinder head and block: Check for warping, cracks, or damage. A warped head may need machining.

* Clean the mating surfaces: Thoroughly clean the cylinder head and engine block surfaces where the gasket sits.

* Install the new head gasket: Make sure it's seated correctly.

* Install the cylinder head: Tighten the head bolts (or studs) in the correct sequence and to the specified torque using a torque wrench. Improper tightening can cause head gasket failure again.

* Reinstall all removed components: Double-check everything.

* Refill fluids: Use the correct type and amount of coolant and oil.

* Test for leaks: Run the engine and check for leaks and proper coolant temperature.

Important Considerations:

* Engine timing: The timing belt or chain may need to be removed and reinstalled. Mistiming the engine can cause serious damage.

* Torque specifications: Following the exact torque specifications for the head bolts is critical. Use a torque wrench and consult your repair manual.

* Warped cylinder head: A warped cylinder head will lead to another blown head gasket. This requires machining the head to make it flat again.

Again, this is a complex repair. Unless you have significant experience with engine repair, it's strongly recommended to take your vehicle to a qualified mechanic. The cost of a professional repair will likely be less than the cost of a botched DIY job that requires more repairs or even a new engine.