1. Check the Fuel Pump Relay:
* Location: Consult your owner's manual or a wiring diagram for the precise location of the fuel pump relay. It's usually under the hood in the fuse box or a separate relay center.
* Testing: Swap the fuel pump relay with a known good relay of the same type (don't just try another relay – make sure the amperage ratings match). If the problem is solved, the original relay is faulty. If not, the problem lies elsewhere.
* Visual Inspection: Look for any burned contacts, corrosion, or obvious damage on the relay.
2. Check the Fuel Pump Inertia Switch:
* Location: This safety device is designed to cut power to the fuel pump in a collision. It's often found under the dash or in the engine compartment. Your owner's manual should show its location.
* Testing: Locate the switch (it might have a small red button). Press the button to reset it. If this resolves the issue, your inertia switch was tripped.
3. Check the Fuel Pump Fuse:
* Location: Check your owner's manual for the fuel pump fuse location (it's usually in the fuse box under the hood or inside the car).
* Testing: Visually inspect the fuse for a blown element (a broken wire inside). If it's blown, replace it with a fuse of the same amperage rating. If it blows immediately upon replacement, you have a short circuit somewhere in the system – don't keep replacing it!
4. Check the Wiring:
* Visual Inspection: Carefully examine the wiring harness leading to the fuel pump. Look for any signs of damage (fraying, cuts, corrosion, melted insulation). Pay close attention to the connections at both ends.
* Continuity Test (Requires a multimeter): If you're comfortable with basic electrical testing, use a multimeter to check for continuity in the wiring between the fuel pump and the relay/fuse box. This will tell you if there's a break in the wire. Always disconnect the negative battery terminal before doing any electrical testing.
* Voltage Test (Requires a multimeter): With the ignition turned on, use a multimeter to check for voltage at the fuel pump connector. There should be voltage present if the circuit is working correctly. Again, disconnect the negative battery terminal first.
5. Check the Fuel Pump itself (Least Likely but Possible):
While less likely to be the cause of *no* power, a faulty fuel pump could potentially draw excessive current, causing a blown fuse. This is less probable if you've already replaced the fuse and it keeps blowing.
Important Considerations:
* Safety First: Disconnect the negative battery terminal before working on any electrical components.
* Wiring Diagrams: A wiring diagram specific to your 1987 Ford Crown Victoria will be invaluable for tracing the electrical path to the fuel pump. You can often find these online through repair manuals or forums dedicated to classic Ford vehicles.
* Professional Help: If you're not comfortable working with automotive electrical systems, it's best to take your car to a qualified mechanic. Incorrect troubleshooting could lead to further damage.
By systematically checking these items, you should be able to pinpoint the reason your fuel pump isn't receiving power. Remember to always prioritize safety and consult a professional if needed.
