1. Verify Cranking Strength:
* Weak Cranking: If the engine cranks slowly, weakly, or struggles, the starter motor *could* be failing (worn brushes, weak solenoid). A low battery, corroded battery cables, or a bad connection at the battery terminals are more likely culprits in this case. Check those first!
* Strong Cranking: If the engine cranks over strongly but doesn't fire, the problem is less likely to be the starter itself and more likely ignition-related.
2. Battery and Cables:
* Battery Voltage: Use a voltmeter to check the battery voltage. It should be at least 12.6V when not cranking, and ideally above 10V while cranking. Low voltage points to a weak battery or charging system problem.
* Cable Connections: Inspect the battery terminals and cable connections for corrosion, looseness, or damage. Clean any corrosion thoroughly and tighten connections. Pay close attention to the ground cable (typically connected to the engine block). A poor ground can severely impact starting.
3. Starter Solenoid (Clicking Sound):
* Clicking: If you hear a single click when you turn the key, the most likely culprit is a weak battery, corroded cables, or a faulty starter solenoid. The solenoid is the electromagnetic switch that engages the starter motor. A click means it's trying to engage but not quite making the connection.
* Multiple Clicks: If you hear a rapid clicking, it points to a low battery voltage preventing the solenoid from fully engaging.
4. Starter Motor Tests (If Clicking or Weak Cranking):
This requires some mechanical knowledge and tools. These tests are best done after you've ruled out the battery and cables.
* Directly Jump the Solenoid: With the key *off*, use jumper cables to bypass the solenoid and send 12V directly to the starter motor. Caution: This is potentially dangerous. ONLY attempt if you are comfortable working with car electrical systems and have proper safety precautions. If the engine cranks strongly, the problem is likely in the solenoid or wiring leading to it.
* Check the Starter for Power at the Terminals: If you have access to the starter while the ignition is on, check its positive and negative terminals for 12V. A lack of voltage shows a problem with the wiring or solenoid. *Again, this requires care and is potentially dangerous.*
* Visual Inspection: Remove the starter motor (requires mechanical knowledge and tools) and inspect it for physical damage, loose connections, and corrosion. Often, worn-out brushes are the cause of starter motor failure. You might notice debris in the starter case.
5. Ignition System Checks (If Cranking Strongly):
If the engine cranks strongly but fails to start, consider:
* Spark Plugs: Check if they're sparking.
* Ignition Coil: Test the ignition coil.
* Fuel System: Check for fuel pressure.
* Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP): A faulty CKP sensor is a common cause of no-start conditions.
Important Notes:
* Safety First: Always disconnect the negative battery terminal before working on the electrical system.
* Professional Help: If you're not comfortable performing these tests, take the vehicle to a qualified mechanic.
By systematically checking these areas, you'll be able to diagnose the problem and hopefully fix your 1994 Chevy Lumina. Remember that a strong crank means the problem is likely *not* the starter itself, but something preventing the engine from firing even though it's turning over.
