The problem is likely *not* a fuse *directly* behind the instrument cluster. While fuses *related* to the gauge cluster's power might exist there, the fuel sender's power usually comes from a separate circuit.
Here's a more systematic approach to troubleshooting:
1. Check the obvious fuses: Consult your owner's manual to locate the fuse box diagrams. Look for fuses related to the fuel gauge, fuel pump, or power to the instrument cluster. These are more likely candidates than a fuse *hidden* behind the instrument cluster itself. Replace any blown fuses.
2. Power at the sending unit: The real problem is likely a break in the wiring between the sending unit and the gauge cluster. Use a voltmeter or test light to check for power at the fuel sending unit connector *itself*. You'll need to access this connector (this requires dropping the fuel tank, which is a significant job; consider professional help at this point). If there's no power at the connector, the problem is upstream in the wiring or another fuse.
3. Ground connection: A poor ground connection can affect gauge readings. Inspect the ground wires associated with the fuel gauge and instrument cluster.
4. Wiring harness inspection: Examine the wiring harness between the fuel sending unit and the instrument cluster for any damage, cuts, or corrosion. This is usually difficult to access and may require partial disassembly.
5. Fuel gauge itself: It's less likely, but there's a tiny chance the fuel gauge itself is faulty. This is usually diagnosed after eliminating other issues.
6. Instrument cluster: The instrument cluster itself might be faulty; however, a complete failure (all gauges not working) is more likely in that case.
Because accessing the fuel sending unit requires dropping the fuel tank—a major job for most DIYers—it's highly recommended to seek professional help from a mechanic unless you're experienced with auto repair. Incorrectly working with the fuel system can be dangerous.
