What you'll need:
* Brake fluid: Use DOT 3 brake fluid (check your owner's manual to be absolutely sure). Do not use DOT 4 or DOT 5! DOT 5 is silicone-based and incompatible with most brake systems.
* Bleeding wrench: A brake bleeder wrench (often adjustable) fits over the bleeder valve for easier turning. A crescent wrench can work, but be careful not to round off the bleeder valve.
* Clear tubing: About 3 feet of clear plastic tubing fits snugly over the bleeder valve. The other end should go into a container to collect the fluid.
* Container: A jar or bottle to catch the old brake fluid.
* Rag or shop towels: To clean up spills.
* Helper: Someone to pump the brake pedal.
Steps:
1. Safety First: Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from brake fluid splashes. Brake fluid is corrosive and can damage paint. Work in a well-ventilated area.
2. Locate Bleeder Valves: The bleeder valves are located on the top of each caliper (front brakes) and on the wheel cylinders (rear brakes). They are usually small, typically hexagonal.
3. Prepare the System: Make sure the brake fluid reservoir is topped off with fresh DOT 3 fluid.
4. Order of Bleeding: The standard order is: Rear passenger, Rear driver, Front passenger, Front driver. This is because the furthest points from the master cylinder are bled first. This helps ensure all air is removed efficiently. (Some mechanics prefer other orders – there isn’t a universally agreed-upon perfect order, as long as you go from furthest to closest to the master cylinder).
5. Bleeding Procedure (per wheel):
* Attach the clear tubing to the bleeder valve. Submerge the other end of the tubing into the container filled with some brake fluid (this prevents air from getting back into the system).
* Have your helper firmly pump the brake pedal several times (5-7 pumps usually), then hold it down.
* Slowly open the bleeder valve with the wrench. You should see brake fluid flowing through the tubing, likely with air bubbles at first. Close the valve when the flow slows significantly or stops.
* Your helper should release the brake pedal once the bleeder valve is closed.
* Repeat steps 5-7 until there are no more air bubbles in the fluid coming out of the bleeder valve. Check that the fluid reservoir is still topped up and add more brake fluid if needed, doing this frequently is important.
* Tighten the bleeder valve firmly once you’re finished with each wheel.
6. Repeat for all Wheels: Follow steps 5 for each wheel in the order mentioned previously. Add more brake fluid to the reservoir as needed.
7. Test the Brakes: After bleeding all four wheels, have your helper pump the brake pedal firmly. There should be a firm and consistent pedal, with no sponginess. If the pedal feels spongy, you may need to repeat the bleeding process. If the problem persists, there could be a more serious issue requiring professional attention.
8. Check for Leaks: Once bled, inspect all connections and brake lines for any leaks.
Important Considerations:
* Power Brakes: If your S10 has power brakes, you will need to have the engine running for the power assist to function properly during bleeding.
* ABS Brakes: If your S10 has Anti-lock Braking System (ABS), bleeding the brakes can be more complex and might require specialized tools and knowledge. Consult a repair manual or professional mechanic for ABS equipped S10s.
* Difficult Bleeding: If you find it difficult to bleed the brakes, there might be a problem in the system (e.g., a leak, a restricted line). Consult a mechanic if you cannot get a firm brake pedal.
This process is a general guide. Consult your owner's manual or a repair manual specific to your 1989 Chevy S10 for more detailed instructions and diagrams. If you're unsure about any step, it's best to seek help from a qualified mechanic. Improperly bled brakes are dangerous.
