Here's a general outline of the process. Specific steps and torque specifications will vary slightly depending on the exact year and model, so consult a repair manual specific to your vehicle for detailed instructions and diagrams. A Chilton's or Haynes manual is a good investment.
Tools You'll Likely Need:
* Jack and jack stands: Essential for safety. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
* Wheel chocks: To secure the vehicle.
* Lug wrench: To remove the wheel.
* Socket set and wrenches: Various sizes, including metric and possibly SAE.
* Ball joint separator: To separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
* Tie rod end separator: To separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle. (Sometimes a pickle fork can be used, but a separator is less damaging.)
* Brake caliper piston compressor: To compress the brake caliper piston to allow for the rotor removal. C-clamps *can* be used, but a compressor is safer and easier.
* Hammer and punches: Possibly needed for stubborn parts.
* Press (or shop press): Absolutely necessary for removing and installing the wheel bearing. This is often the biggest hurdle for home mechanics. You *can* sometimes use a socket and hammer for removal, but this is risky and can damage the hub.
* Penetrating oil (like PB Blaster): To help loosen rusted or seized parts.
* Torque wrench: To tighten bolts to the manufacturer's specifications.
* New wheel bearing assembly: Make sure you get the correct part number for your specific vehicle.
* New cotter pin and nut (for the axle nut).
General Steps:
1. Safety First: Park on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels. Use jack stands to safely lift the vehicle.
2. Remove the Wheel and Brake Caliper: Remove the wheel. Remove the brake caliper and hang it safely out of the way using a bungee cord or wire. Compress the brake caliper piston.
3. Disconnect the Ball Joint and Tie Rod End: Carefully separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle using a ball joint separator. Similarly, separate the tie rod end from the knuckle using a tie rod end separator.
4. Remove the Rotor (if necessary): Depending on the design, you might need to remove the rotor to access the bearing.
5. Remove the Hub Assembly: Remove the axle nut (this will be very tight, so use a breaker bar if needed). Once the nut is off, you can usually pull the hub assembly off the spindle. This might require some persuasion with a hammer and punch.
6. Press Out the Old Bearing: This is where the press is crucial. Use the press to carefully press the old bearing out of the hub assembly.
7. Press In the New Bearing: Use the press to carefully press the new bearing into the hub assembly. Ensure it's seated correctly.
8. Reassembly: Reassemble everything in the reverse order of disassembly, ensuring all components are properly seated and tightened to the correct torque specifications (refer to your repair manual). Pay close attention to the axle nut torque.
9. Check Your Work: After reassembly, carefully inspect your work. Check for any loose bolts or components.
10. Lower the Vehicle: Slowly lower the vehicle and check your work again. Test drive the car carefully, checking for any unusual noises or vibrations.
Important Considerations:
* Pressing the bearings: This is a critical step and requires the correct tools and technique. Incorrectly pressing the bearing can damage it.
* Torque Specifications: Follow the torque specifications precisely. Incorrect torque can lead to premature wear or failure.
* ABS Sensor: If your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, be mindful of the ABS sensor. It's usually located on the hub assembly and may need to be disconnected and reconnected.
* Repair Manual: Using a repair manual specific to your vehicle is highly recommended. It will provide detailed instructions, torque specifications, and diagrams.
Again, this is a complex repair. If you are not comfortable performing this repair yourself, take your vehicle to a qualified mechanic. Improperly replacing a wheel bearing can lead to serious safety issues.
