Tools You'll Need:
* Jack and jack stands: Essential for safely lifting the vehicle. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
* Lug wrench: To remove the wheels.
* Wheel chocks: To prevent the vehicle from rolling.
* Sockets and wrenches: A variety of sizes will likely be needed, including those that fit your lug nuts and caliper bolts. Consult your vehicle's repair manual for specifics.
* Caliper piston compressor: Essential for compressing the caliper piston to make room for the new, thicker rotor. A C-clamp can work in a pinch, but a proper tool is safer and easier.
* Hammer and punch (optional): May be needed to help knock the old rotor off if it's stubborn.
* Torque wrench: Absolutely crucial for tightening bolts to the correct specification – prevents damage to the components and ensures proper braking function. Consult your repair manual for torque specifications.
* Rotor cleaning brush or wire brush: To clean the hub before installing the new rotor.
* Grease: For lubricating caliper pins.
* Penetrating oil (like PB Blaster): Helps loosen rusted bolts.
* Safety glasses and gloves: Protect yourself from injury.
* Repair manual specific to your year and model Suzuki Sidekick/Tracker: This is invaluable for torque specifications, bolt sizes, and specific procedures.
Steps:
1. Safety First: Park on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels. Wear safety glasses and gloves.
2. Lift and Secure: Safely lift the vehicle using the jack and secure it on jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
3. Remove Wheel: Remove the lug nuts and take off the wheel.
4. Remove Caliper: Locate the caliper bolts (usually two) and remove them. Carefully support the caliper; it's often easiest to hang it from the suspension using a bungee cord or wire to keep it out of the way.
5. Compress Caliper Piston: Using the caliper piston compressor, carefully compress the piston back into the caliper. This creates the space needed for the new, thicker rotor. Be careful not to damage the piston seal.
6. Remove Rotor: The rotor should now be loose. Sometimes it can be stubborn. If it's stuck, gently tap it with a hammer and punch, starting at one of the mounting holes. Work your way around until it loosens. Be careful not to damage the wheel studs.
7. Clean the Hub: Thoroughly clean the wheel hub mating surface where the rotor sits using a wire brush to remove any rust or debris.
8. Install New Rotor: Slide the new rotor onto the wheel studs. Ensure it's properly seated.
9. Reinstall Caliper: Reinstall the caliper, ensuring it slides freely. Lubricate the caliper pins with grease.
10. Reinstall Wheel: Put the wheel back on and tighten the lug nuts finger-tight.
11. Lower Vehicle: Lower the vehicle to the ground.
12. Torque Lug Nuts: Using the torque wrench, tighten the lug nuts to the manufacturer's specified torque. This is critical!
13. Final Check: Before driving, double-check that all bolts are tight and that the caliper is properly seated. Test the brakes carefully and gently before driving at normal speeds.
Important Considerations:
* Repair Manual: This is crucial for specific torque values, bolt sizes, and procedures for your particular year and model Sidekick/Tracker. Improper torque can lead to serious problems.
* Brake Fluid: If you're bleeding your brakes, be sure to use the correct brake fluid for your vehicle.
* Resurfacing vs. Replacement: Consider having your rotors resurfaced if they're only slightly worn. This is often cheaper than replacement, but it's not always possible. If the rotors are severely warped, grooved, or cracked, replacement is necessary.
This information is for guidance only. Consult your vehicle's repair manual for specific instructions and safety precautions. If you're unsure about any step, it's best to seek professional help. Incorrect brake repair can be dangerous.
