Tools you'll likely need:
* Jack and jack stands (essential for safety!)
* Wheel chocks
* Lug wrench
* Socket wrench and sockets (various sizes)
* Pliers or caliper piston compression tool
* C-clamp (optional, for caliper piston compression)
* Brake cleaner
* Wire brush (optional, for cleaning caliper surfaces)
* Gloves
Steps:
1. Safety First: Park on a level surface, engage the parking brake firmly, and chock the rear wheels. Jack up the front of the car and securely support it on jack stands. Never work under a car supported only by a jack.
2. Remove the Wheel: Remove the lug nuts and carefully take off the wheel.
3. Expose the Caliper: You should now see the brake caliper assembly clamped around the brake rotor.
4. Locate the Caliper Pins (Bolts): These pins hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. They are usually on the back of the caliper. You might need to use a socket or wrench to remove them. Sometimes they are difficult to access. They might require penetrating oil and some persuasion.
5. Remove the Caliper: Once the pins are removed, carefully lift the caliper off the rotor. Be prepared! The caliper is still connected to the brake line and contains brake fluid under pressure. Try to support the caliper's weight with one hand so it doesn't dangle by the brake line.
6. Compress the Caliper Piston: Before you can remove the old brake pads, you need to compress the caliper piston. This allows the new, thicker pads to fit. There are several ways to do this:
* Caliper piston compression tool: This is the safest and easiest method. It evenly compresses the piston without damaging it.
* C-clamp: Be very careful using a C-clamp. Position it correctly on the piston to avoid damage. Compress slowly and steadily.
* Large pliers: This is less recommended unless you have no other option.
7. Remove the Old Brake Pads: With the piston compressed, the old brake pads should slide out of their retaining clips or slots in the caliper.
8. Clean the Caliper and Bracket: Use a wire brush to clean any rust or debris from the caliper and bracket surfaces. Use brake cleaner to remove any grease or dirt.
9. Install the New Brake Pads: Insert the new brake pads into their respective locations in the caliper.
10. Reinstall the Caliper: Carefully slide the caliper back onto the rotor. Reinsert the caliper pins and tighten them to the manufacturer's specified torque.
11. Reinstall the Wheel: Replace the wheel and tighten the lug nuts to the manufacturer's specified torque. Lower the vehicle.
12. Pump the Brakes: Pump the brake pedal several times to ensure the pads are properly seated against the rotor. Check for any leaks around the caliper.
13. Test Drive (Caution): Take a short test drive to ensure the brakes are functioning correctly.
Important Considerations:
* Brake Fluid: If you have to significantly compress the caliper piston, you may need to open a bleeder valve on the caliper to allow excess brake fluid to escape, preventing the master cylinder from overflowing. Consult your repair manual for bleeder valve location and bleeding procedure. This often requires a helper to pump the brakes while you open and close the bleeder valve.
* Rotor Condition: Inspect your brake rotors for wear. If they're excessively worn or scored, they may need to be replaced or turned (machined) at a brake shop.
This is a general guide. Always consult your vehicle's repair manual for detailed instructions and safety precautions specific to your 1998 Chevy Prizm. If you're not comfortable performing this task yourself, it's best to take your car to a qualified mechanic. Brake failure is extremely dangerous.
