Tools You'll Likely Need:
* Socket set: Various sizes, including metric and possibly SAE.
* Wrench set: Same as above.
* Torque wrench: Essential to avoid damaging parts.
* Drain pan: To catch transmission fluid.
* Jack and jack stands: Crucial for safety.
* Wheel chocks: For added safety.
* Ratcheting box-end wrenches: Make access easier in tight spaces.
* Clutch alignment tool: Usually needed for reinstallation of the clutch (if you're also replacing the clutch).
* Shop towels or rags: To clean up spills.
* New clutch slave cylinder: Get the correct part number for your vehicle.
* Possibly a transmission fluid top-off: you might lose some fluid during this process.
Procedure:
1. Safety First: Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Secure the vehicle on jack stands with wheel chocks. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
2. Access the Slave Cylinder: This is the most vehicle-specific part. The slave cylinder is typically located on the transmission, near where the clutch fork connects. You'll likely need to remove parts like the transmission inspection cover or potentially some components that obstruct access (consult your repair manual). The access can be extremely tight.
3. Drain Transmission Fluid (Possibly): If you have to disconnect the transmission line to the slave cylinder, be prepared for some fluid loss. Position a drain pan accordingly.
4. Disconnect the Slave Cylinder: This usually involves disconnecting the hydraulic line from the slave cylinder (carefully! It will contain fluid). You may need to loosen a retaining clip or bolt holding the cylinder to the transmission. Some models use a push rod. Again, consult your repair manual for specifics.
5. Remove the Old Slave Cylinder: Once disconnected, carefully remove the old slave cylinder. Take note of its orientation and any associated components.
6. Install the New Slave Cylinder: Install the new slave cylinder, ensuring it's properly seated and oriented.
7. Reconnect the Hydraulic Line: Carefully reconnect the hydraulic line to the new slave cylinder. Tighten securely, but don't overtighten.
8. Reassemble: Reinstall any components you removed to access the slave cylinder. This step is critical and requires attention to detail.
9. Bleed the Clutch Hydraulic System: This is crucial. Air in the lines will prevent the clutch from working properly. You'll need a helper to operate the clutch pedal while you bleed the system. There are several bleeding methods; refer to your repair manual for the best technique for your S-10. Usually, a pressure bleeder is best, otherwise it can be a tedious process.
10. Lower the Vehicle: Carefully lower the vehicle from the jack stands.
11. Test the Clutch: Start the engine and test the clutch operation. Make sure it engages and disengages smoothly. If the clutch feels spongy or doesn't disengage fully, you likely still have air in the system and need to re-bleed it.
Important Considerations:
* Repair Manual: A factory service manual or a Haynes/Chilton manual for your specific 1991 S-10 is highly recommended. The above is a general guide, and variations in design exist.
* Transmission Fluid: Have the correct type and amount of transmission fluid on hand to top off the system after bleeding.
* Bleeding Process: This is often the most challenging part. If you're unfamiliar with bleeding clutch hydraulic systems, consider seeking professional help.
This job is not trivial. If you are uncomfortable working on your vehicle, it's always best to take it to a qualified mechanic. Improperly installed parts can lead to further damage or injury. Remember safety first!
