1. Diagnosis Confirmation: Before tearing into the engine, you *must* confirm it's actually a blown head gasket. Symptoms can be similar to other problems. Accurate diagnosis is crucial to avoid unnecessary work. Tests include:
* Compression test: Checks the compression in each cylinder. Low compression in one or more cylinders, especially inconsistent readings, points toward a head gasket issue.
* Leak-down test: More precise than a compression test, this identifies where compression is escaping (e.g., into the coolant system, crankcase, or exhaust).
* Coolant pressure test: Checks for pressure loss in the cooling system, indicating a leak into the cylinders or oil system. Look for white smoke from the exhaust (indicates coolant burning) and/or milky oil (indicates coolant mixing with oil).
2. Repair Procedure (If Head Gasket is Confirmed):
This is a complex multi-step process. A detailed explanation would be very long, but here's a general outline:
* Preparation: Disconnect the battery, drain fluids (coolant, oil), remove accessories (alternator, power steering pump, etc.) and related components to access the cylinder head.
* Head Removal: Carefully remove the cylinder head(s) (most likely a V8, meaning two heads). This involves removing bolts, gaskets, and potentially other components like valve covers.
* Inspection: Thoroughly inspect the cylinder head(s) for warping, cracks, or damage. The block should also be inspected for damage. Any significant damage will require further repair or replacement.
* Head Gasket Replacement: Install a new head gasket, following the manufacturer's specifications meticulously. Torque specs are critical; using an incorrect torque will damage the head and/or block.
* Head Reinstallation: Carefully reinstall the cylinder head(s) using the correct bolt tightening sequence and torque specifications. Use a torque wrench!
* Reassembly: Reinstall all components removed earlier, ensuring everything is correctly connected and tightened.
* Refilling and System Pressure Testing: Refill fluids (coolant, oil), making sure to bleed the air from the cooling system. Perform pressure tests on both the cooling and oil systems to confirm no leaks.
* Engine Run and Monitoring: Start the engine and monitor for leaks, unusual noises, overheating, or other problems.
3. Tools and Parts Needed:
* Torque wrench: Absolutely essential for precise tightening of head bolts.
* Socket set and wrenches: Various sizes needed for removing and installing components.
* Cylinder head gasket set: Includes the head gasket, head bolts (often best to replace), and other seals.
* Coolant: Use the correct type for your Suburban.
* Engine oil: Use the correct type and weight.
* Shop manuals: A Haynes or Chilton manual specific to your 1995 Suburban is highly recommended.
* Possibly a Head Resurfacing: If the head is warped, it'll need to be resurfaced by a machine shop.
4. Alternatives:
* Professional Mechanic: The most practical and safest option for most people. This avoids potential damage from improper repair and ensures the job is done correctly. Expect a significant cost.
* Engine Replacement (in extreme cases): If the engine block is damaged or if the repair cost exceeds the value of the vehicle, engine replacement might be considered.
In summary: Repairing a blown head gasket is a major undertaking. Unless you have extensive experience with engine repair, taking your Suburban to a qualified mechanic is strongly recommended. Attempting this repair without the proper knowledge and tools could lead to further, more costly damage.
