Here's a general outline. Specific steps might vary slightly depending on the exact Mustang model (e.g., GT, V6). Always consult a repair manual specific to your year and model for precise instructions and torque specifications.
Tools You'll Need:
* Jack and jack stands: Essential for safely lifting the car. Never work under a car supported only by a jack.
* Lug wrench: To remove the wheels.
* Wheel chocks: To prevent the car from rolling.
* Socket wrench set (metric): Various sizes will be needed.
* Torque wrench: Crucial for tightening bolts to the correct specifications. Incorrect torque can damage components.
* C-clamp or brake caliper compression tool: To compress the brake caliper piston.
* Hammer: Possibly needed to tap things loose.
* Penetrating oil (like PB Blaster): Helps loosen rusted bolts.
* Wrench for caliper bracket bolts: Usually a 15mm or 14mm.
* Clean rags or shop towels: To keep things clean.
* New brake rotors: Make sure you buy the correct rotors for your Mustang model.
* New brake pads (optional but recommended): It's best practice to replace the pads at the same time as the rotors for optimal braking performance.
* Safety glasses and gloves: Protect yourself.
Procedure:
1. Safety First: Park on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and use wheel chocks on the wheels that remain on the ground. Wear safety glasses and gloves.
2. Lift and Secure: Safely lift the car using the jack and secure it with jack stands under the frame, not the suspension.
3. Remove the Wheel: Remove the lug nuts and carefully take off the wheel.
4. Remove the Caliper:
* Use the C-clamp or caliper compression tool to compress the brake caliper piston. This creates space for the new, thicker rotor. Be careful not to damage the piston or seals.
* Remove the caliper mounting bolts (usually two) and carefully hang the caliper out of the way using a wire or bungee cord to avoid stressing the brake line. Don't let the caliper hang by the brake line.
5. Remove the Rotor: The rotor may be held on by several different methods. It might simply slide off, or there might be caliper bracket bolts to remove (carefully). Some rotors have a small retaining clip that needs to be removed first. Use a hammer (gently!) if necessary to tap it loose, but be careful not to damage the wheel hub. If the rotor is particularly stubborn, penetrating oil applied earlier can help.
6. Install the New Rotor: Clean the hub thoroughly before installing the new rotor. Slide the new rotor onto the wheel studs. Make sure it fits snugly and is properly seated. Reinstall any retaining clips or bolts.
7. Reinstall the Caliper: Carefully re-install the caliper bracket bolts and tighten them to the manufacturer's specified torque. Re-attach the caliper.
8. Reinstall the Wheel: Replace the wheel and tighten the lug nuts to the manufacturer's specified torque. Do not overtighten!
9. Lower the Car: Carefully lower the car from the jack stands.
10. Test the Brakes: Before driving, pump the brake pedal several times to ensure the brakes are working correctly. Take the car for a short, careful test drive to ensure everything is functioning properly.
Important Considerations:
* Rust: Older cars often have rusty bolts. Penetrating oil applied several hours in advance can make a big difference.
* Torque Specifications: Use a torque wrench and follow the manufacturer's specifications. This is crucial for safety and preventing damage.
* Brake Fluid: If you have to significantly compress the caliper piston, you may have to open the bleeder valve to avoid pushing air into the brake line. Consult a repair manual if you're unsure about this step.
* Repair Manual: A repair manual specific to your 1998 Ford Mustang is invaluable. It provides detailed instructions, torque specifications, and diagrams.
Again, if you're not comfortable performing this repair yourself, take your car to a qualified mechanic. Brake safety is not something to take lightly.
