Here's a general outline; specifics may vary slightly depending on your Camaro's exact configuration (e.g., disc or drum brakes):
1. Preparation:
* Safety First: Disconnect the battery negative terminal. Wear safety glasses and gloves.
* Gather Supplies: You'll need new brake lines (get the correct length and type – double-flare is typical for this era), tubing bender (a good quality one is crucial for proper bends), flare nut wrench set (metric), pipe wrench, brake line cutter/flaring tool, new fittings (if needed), brake fluid, rags, jack stands, and a wheel chock. A helper can be invaluable.
* Consult a Manual: A 1969 Camaro repair manual (Chilton, Haynes, or a factory service manual) is essential. It will show you the exact routing and components for your specific model.
* Drain Brake Fluid: Open the bleeder valves on the rear wheels to release pressure before disconnecting any lines. Collect the fluid in a container to avoid spills.
2. Removal of Old Brake Lines:
* Support the Vehicle: Securely jack up the rear of the car and place it on jack stands. Use a wheel chock on the front wheels.
* Locate the Lines: Trace the brake lines from the rear axle to the point where they connect to the rest of the braking system (usually under the car near the frame).
* Disconnect the Lines: Use the appropriate wrenches to carefully disconnect the brake lines at their connection points. Expect some resistance and potential leaking of old brake fluid. Be prepared to catch any fluid drips. Note how the lines are routed – take pictures or make detailed sketches if necessary.
* Remove the Old Lines: Carefully remove the old brake lines. Note the position of any clips or brackets that hold the lines in place.
3. Installation of New Brake Lines:
* Prepare the New Lines: Cut the new brake lines to length (remember to account for bends and fittings). Use a tubing bender to create the necessary bends, mimicking the bends of the old lines. Make sure the bends are smooth and don't kink the lines.
* Flare the Lines: Use your flaring tool to create double flares on the ends of the new brake lines. A proper flare is crucial for a leak-free connection.
* Install New Fittings: If necessary, attach the new fittings (they may already be attached to the new lines depending on how you bought them).
* Connect the Lines: Carefully connect the new brake lines to the fittings on the rear axle and the rest of the brake system. Use a torque wrench to tighten the fittings to the manufacturer's specifications.
* Secure the Lines: Secure the new brake lines using the original clips or brackets. Make sure the lines are properly routed and have no kinks or sharp bends.
4. Bleeding the Brakes:
* Refill the Brake Master Cylinder: Add fresh brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir.
* Bleed the Brakes: Use a brake bleeder kit to bleed the brakes, starting with the rear wheels furthest from the master cylinder and working your way towards the front. Have a helper pump the brake pedal while you open and close the bleeder valves. This removes air from the brake lines. Refer to your repair manual for proper bleeding procedure. Repeat until no air bubbles are visible in the fluid.
5. Final Checks:
* Check for Leaks: Carefully inspect all connections for leaks. If you find any leaks, tighten the fittings or replace the affected lines.
* Test the Brakes: Test the brakes carefully before driving the car. Make sure they are firm and responsive.
Important Considerations:
* Proper flaring is critical. A poorly flared line will leak.
* Don't over-tighten fittings. This can damage the lines or fittings.
* Use the correct brake fluid.
* Always consult your repair manual for specific instructions and torque specifications.
This is a simplified overview. The actual process will be more involved. Again, if you are unsure about any step, consult a professional mechanic. Brake failure can have serious consequences.
