- Floor Jack
- Jack Stands
- 3/8" Drive Ratchet and Socket Set (metric and standard)
- Flat-bladed screwdriver
- New transmission axle seal
- RTV silicone sealant
- Oil drain pan
- Safety glasses
- Disposable gloves
Instructions:
1.) Raise and support the vehicle using the floor jack and jack stands. Ensure that the vehicle is parked on a level surface and that the parking brake is engaged.
2.) Remove the front driver's side wheel.
3.) Remove the brake caliper and rotor. Remove the two 19-mm bolts that hold the caliper in place and then pry it off the rotor. You may need to use a mallet or pry bar to remove it if it is stuck.
4.) Unbolt the axle nut. To do this you may need a long extension on your ratchet in order to reach the nut behind the rotor (use a 1/2" drive ratchet for more power). Support the lower control arm with your jack to take some of the weight off of the ball joint. This will make it easier to break loose the axle nut. It may take some pressure before it pops loose.
5.) Remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle. To remove the tie rod, use the 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the 18-mm bolt that connects it to the steering knuckle. Then pry it off of the knuckle using the flat-bladed screwdriver.
6.) Remove the lower ball joint from the control arm. Use a 13-mm socket and ratchet to remove the two bolts that connect the ball joint to the control arm. Then pry it off of the control arm using the flat-bladed screwdriver.
7.) Support the transmission with a floor jack. Make sure to position the jack properly to avoid putting any undue strain on the transmission or the oil pan.
8.) Remove the axle nut. Slide the cotter pin off the axle nut and remove the nut using the 3/8" drive ratchet and socket. You will need to break it loose using the long extension on your ratchet but only remove it about five turns until it is almost off.
9.) Remove the axle retaining bolts and slide out the axle shaft. This will be more difficult if you were unable to completely remove the axle nut. There are three 13-mm bolts that hold it in place. Once you have removed them you can begin to pry loose the axle where the seal is located using a flat-bladed screwdriver.
10.) Apply RTV silicone sealant to the new transmission axle seal. Apply a thin bead of RTV sealant to the outer edge of the new seal. This will help to ensure that it does not leak.
11.) Install the new transmission axle seal. Press the new seal into the transmission case by hand until it is fully seated.
12.) Reinstall the axle shaft and the axle retaining bolts. Slide the axle shaft back into place and replace the three 13-mm bolts you removed in step 8.
13.) Tighten the axle nut. Use the 1/2" drive ratchet to tighten the axle nut.
14.) Reinstall the tie rod end. Reattach the tie rod end to the steering knuckle by threading the bolt back in and tightening it with the 3/8" drive ratchet.
15.) Reinstall the lower ball joint. Reattach the lower ball joint to the control arm by threading the two bolts back in and tightening them with the 3/8" drive ratchet.
16.) Reinstall the brake caliper and rotor. Reattach the brake caliper and rotor to the wheel hub.
17.) Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle. Remove the jack stands and floor jack and then put the lug nuts back on the wheel and lower the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to the proper torque specifications. Check your car manual for the specific torque amount for your vehicle.
18.) Fill the transmission with fluid. Use a funnel to add transmission fluid to the transmission through the fill plug. Check the transmission fluid level and add more fluid as needed.
19.) Test drive the vehicle. Go for a short test drive to make sure the axle seal repair was successful. Check for any leaks and listen for any unusual noises.
