Here's a breakdown of likely culprits and why:
* Coil Pack: A failing coil pack can cause intermittent misfires, resulting in the engine cutting out. However, this alone usually doesn't explain the long cranking time. A bad coil pack might cause a no-start condition, but a long crank suggests the engine is getting *some* spark, just not consistently.
* Ignition System (Beyond the Coil Pack): This includes:
* Ignition Wires: Cracked or worn ignition wires can cause misfires and stalling.
* Distributor Cap and Rotor (if applicable): A 1990 LeSabre might have a distributor; worn contacts can lead to poor spark delivery.
* Ignition Control Module (ICM): This module controls the spark timing and can fail, causing similar symptoms.
* Fuel System:
* Fuel Pump: A weak fuel pump may not deliver enough fuel to the engine, leading to stalling and difficulty starting.
* Fuel Filter: A clogged fuel filter will restrict fuel flow, causing similar problems.
* Fuel Injectors: Clogged or faulty injectors can cause inconsistent fuel delivery.
* Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP Sensor): This sensor tells the engine's computer where the crankshaft is in its rotation. A faulty CKP sensor prevents the computer from properly timing the spark and fuel injection, leading to a no-start or hard-start condition. This is a very common cause of long cranking.
* Battery/Alternator: A weak battery or alternator can also cause long cranking times.
Troubleshooting Steps:
1. Check the Battery and Alternator: Have the battery tested for voltage and the alternator checked for proper charging. A weak battery will struggle to crank, and a faulty alternator won't keep the battery charged.
2. Inspect the Ignition System: Visually inspect the ignition wires for cracks or damage. If your car has a distributor, check the cap and rotor for wear or carbon tracking.
3. Check for Spark: With the help of a mechanic or someone familiar with car repair, test for spark at the spark plug wires while someone attempts to crank the engine. This will determine if the coil pack, distributor (if applicable), or ignition control module is the culprit.
4. Fuel System Check: Listen carefully near the fuel tank while someone tries to start the car. You should hear the fuel pump whirring briefly. If not, the fuel pump might be faulty.
5. Professional Diagnosis: The best approach is to have a mechanic diagnose the problem. They have specialized tools to test the various components mentioned above, including the crankshaft position sensor and fuel pressure.
Replacing the coil pack is relatively inexpensive, but replacing the wrong part can be costly and time-consuming. A proper diagnosis is crucial before replacing any part. Jumping to conclusions and replacing parts without testing could end up costing you a lot of money and not solve the issue.
