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1994 Plymouth voyager 6-cylinder was idling rough for 4 months and mechanic said it just a dirty injector but now stalled after making turn wont start?

A rough idle for four months that culminated in a no-start after a turn strongly suggests the problem is more significant than just a dirty injector, even though a dirty injector *could* contribute to a rough idle. The fact it stalled after a turn points to something related to engine position or fuel delivery under load. Here are some possibilities:

* Crank sensor: This sensor tells the computer the engine's rotational speed. A failing crank sensor can cause rough idling and prevent starting. The turn may have jostled a failing sensor to its breaking point.

* Cam sensor: Similar to the crank sensor, but monitors the camshaft's position. A faulty cam sensor can lead to misfires, rough running, and no-start conditions.

* Fuel pump: The turn could have stressed a weakened fuel pump, preventing fuel delivery. This is particularly likely if the fuel pressure is low or inconsistent.

* Ignition system: Worn distributor cap, rotor, spark plug wires, or failing ignition coil can cause misfires and prevent starting. The rough idle might have been a precursor to a complete ignition system failure.

* Fuel filter: A clogged fuel filter would restrict fuel flow, especially under load (like making a turn). This is less likely to be the sole cause, given the long history of rough idling.

* Wiring harness: Damage to wiring, particularly due to age and wear in a 1994 vehicle, could be causing intermittent problems that worsened to a complete failure.

* More than one dirty injector: While the mechanic suspected one dirty injector, it's possible multiple injectors are clogged, resulting in insufficient fuel delivery.

What to do next:

1. Check for obvious problems: Look for any obvious signs of damage to the wiring harness, loose connections, or anything unusual.

2. Have a mechanic diagnose the problem properly: Given the history and the sudden no-start condition, you need a proper diagnostic test. This should include checking:

* Fuel pressure: Is there adequate fuel pressure at the rail?

* Spark: Is there spark at the plugs?

* Diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs): The vehicle's computer may have stored codes indicating the problem.

* Crank and cam sensor signals: Are they within specifications?

* Injector operation: Test injector spray patterns to check for clogging.

3. Don't just replace parts: Avoid throwing parts at the problem. A proper diagnosis is crucial to avoid unnecessary expense.

In short, the initial diagnosis of a single dirty injector was likely incorrect, or at least incomplete. The stalling suggests a more serious underlying issue has finally manifested. A thorough diagnostic test is essential to identify and fix the root cause.