Tools You'll Need:
* Jack and jack stands: Essential for safety. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
* Lug wrench: To remove the wheels.
* Wheel chocks: To prevent the vehicle from rolling.
* Socket wrench set (metric): You'll need various sizes, including likely a 13mm, 14mm, and 15mm. A ratchet and extensions will be very helpful.
* C-clamp or caliper compression tool: To compress the caliper piston.
* Hammer: Possibly needed to tap things loose.
* Torque wrench: Crucial for tightening bolts to the correct specification. Consult your owner's manual or a repair manual for torque specs.
* Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, etc.): To help loosen rusted bolts.
* Wrench to remove caliper mounting bolts (size depends on your Ranger): Check the size beforehand.
* Clean rags or shop towels: To keep things clean.
* New front brake rotors: Ensure you purchase the correct ones for your specific '88 Ford Ranger model.
* Safety glasses: Protect your eyes from flying debris.
* Gloves: Protect your hands.
Procedure:
1. Safety First: Park on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and use wheel chocks on the rear wheels. Jack up the front of the vehicle and securely support it with jack stands.
2. Remove the Wheels: Use the lug wrench to remove the lug nuts on the wheel you're working on. Keep the nuts together in a safe place. Remove the wheel and set it aside.
3. Remove the Caliper:
* Use a wrench to remove the bolts securing the caliper to the caliper bracket. These are typically on top and the bottom of the caliper. Sometimes there's a slide pin at the bottom as well.
* Carefully remove the caliper. You may need to gently pry it away from the rotor. Don't let the caliper hang by the brake line; support it with a wire or bungee cord to prevent stressing the brake line.
4. Compress the Caliper Piston: Use the C-clamp or caliper compression tool to push the caliper piston back into the caliper. You'll need to turn the piston as you push to work the fluid back into the master cylinder. Be prepared for some brake fluid to come out. Have a rag ready to absorb it. *Important*: If you don't have a compression tool, you could potentially damage the piston seals in the process. Consider this a potential reason to take it to a professional.
5. Remove the Rotor: The rotor may be held in place by a single bolt (usually on the back) or by friction alone. Use the correct size wrench to remove any retaining bolt. Then gently tap the rotor away from the hub. If it’s stuck, use a rubber mallet to avoid damaging the hub. It might require some persuasion. Penetrating oil applied earlier can be a big help if the rotor is stubbornly stuck.
6. Clean the Hub: Thoroughly clean the hub mating surface where the rotor sits. Remove any rust, dirt, or debris.
7. Install the New Rotor: Slide the new rotor onto the wheel studs. Make sure it seats correctly. Reinstall the retaining bolt, if applicable, and tighten to the manufacturer's specifications.
8. Reinstall the Caliper: Carefully reinstall the caliper over the new rotor, ensuring it slides smoothly. Reattach the caliper mounting bolts and tighten them to the correct torque.
9. Reinstall the Wheel: Mount the wheel, and tighten the lug nuts finger tight. Then tighten them in a star pattern to ensure even pressure, using the lug wrench. Finally, torque them to the manufacturer's specifications using a torque wrench.
10. Lower the Vehicle: Carefully lower the vehicle from the jack stands.
11. Check for Brake Fluid Level: Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir and top it off if necessary.
12. Pump the Brakes: Before driving, pump the brake pedal several times to build pressure in the system.
13. Test Drive: After a short test drive, check the rotor for any signs of rubbing or unusual noise.
Important Considerations:
* Brake Fluid: Be mindful of brake fluid – it’s corrosive and harmful to painted surfaces. Clean up any spills immediately.
* Torque Specifications: Incorrect torque can lead to damaged components or failure. Always consult your vehicle's repair manual for the proper torque specs for all bolts.
* Professional Help: If you're uncomfortable performing this task, it’s best to take your vehicle to a qualified mechanic. This is a relatively simple job, but it involves your brakes - a critical safety system.
This guide provides a general overview. Specific details may vary slightly depending on your specific '88 Ford Ranger model. Always refer to a repair manual specific to your year and model for detailed instructions and torque specifications.
