* Brake System Problems: This is the most probable cause. Check these specifically:
* Brake Caliper: The most common culprit. A seized caliper piston prevents the brake pads from releasing, constantly applying the brakes to that wheel. This often leads to overheating and a burning smell.
* Brake Pads: While less likely to *cause* a locked wheel on their own (unless severely worn and binding), severely worn or damaged pads could exacerbate a caliper problem.
* Brake Lines: A restricted or kinked brake line to the rear right wheel could restrict fluid flow, leading to a constant pressure application. Inspect the lines for damage.
* Wheel Cylinder (Drum Brakes, if applicable): If your Suburban has rear drum brakes, a failing wheel cylinder could allow fluid to leak past the piston, keeping the brakes engaged. This will also usually leak brake fluid.
* Master Cylinder: While less likely to only affect one wheel, a failing master cylinder *could* cause uneven brake pressure distribution, potentially leading to a locked wheel.
* Proportioning Valve: This valve regulates brake pressure between the front and rear axles. A faulty valve could send too much pressure to the rear, affecting one side more than the other.
* Parking Brake (Emergency Brake): Make absolutely sure the parking brake is fully released. A cable that's stuck or a malfunctioning mechanism could be the culprit.
* Drivetrain Issues (Less Likely): While less probable, a problem in the drivetrain *could* manifest as a locked wheel:
* Differential: A problem within the rear differential (a seized bearing, for example) could transfer excessive force to one wheel, simulating a locked wheel. This is less likely to suddenly happen and would often be accompanied by other symptoms (noise, vibration).
* Axle: A seized or damaged axle could also cause a locked wheel.
Troubleshooting Steps:
1. Safety First: Do NOT drive the vehicle until the problem is resolved. A locked wheel can cause loss of control and serious accidents.
2. Check the Obvious: Ensure the parking brake is completely off.
3. Inspect the Wheel: Look for signs of overheating (discoloration, burning smell).
4. Feel the Brake Caliper: Try to gently move the caliper piston. If it's stiff or doesn't move freely, it's likely seized.
5. Check for Brake Fluid Leaks: Look for leaks around the caliper, wheel cylinder (if applicable), brake lines, and master cylinder.
6. Jack Up the Vehicle: Safely lift the rear of the Suburban and support it securely on jack stands. Rotate the wheel. If it's locked, you've confirmed a brake issue.
7. Professional Help: Unless you have significant mechanical experience, it's best to have a qualified mechanic diagnose and repair the problem. A locked wheel suggests a potentially serious safety hazard. Improper repair could worsen the situation.
By systematically checking these areas, you should be able to pinpoint the source of the problem. Remember safety is paramount; don't attempt repairs if you're unsure of what you're doing. A mechanic can diagnose the issue accurately and safely.
