Tools You'll Need:
* Jack and jack stands: Essential for safe working conditions. Never work under a car supported only by a jack.
* Lug wrench: To remove the wheels.
* Wheel chocks: To secure the vehicle.
* Sockets and wrenches: You'll need various sizes, likely including those for the caliper mounting bolts and possibly the parking brake caliper mechanism.
* C-clamp or caliper compression tool: To compress the caliper piston.
* Torque wrench: To properly tighten bolts back to factory specifications.
* Penetrating lubricant (PB Blaster, etc.): To help loosen rusted or seized bolts.
* Clean rags or shop towels: To keep things clean.
* Safety glasses and gloves: Always recommended when working on a car.
Steps:
1. Safety First: Park the car on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and use wheel chocks on the wheels that remain on the ground. Jack up the rear of the car and securely support it on jack stands.
2. Remove the Wheel: Remove the lug nuts and take off the wheel.
3. Expose the Rotor: You should now have clear access to the rotor, caliper, and parking brake assembly (if applicable).
4. Disengage the Parking Brake (If Applicable): The 2003 Lincoln LS likely has a parking brake mechanism integrated into the rear calipers. You'll need to determine how to release this. This *could* involve:
* Manually releasing a cable: There might be a cable adjustment that needs loosening. Your repair manual will show you how.
* Using a C-clamp or caliper compression tool: Often, simply compressing the caliper piston will relieve the parking brake's hold on the rotor.
5. Compress the Caliper Piston: Use a C-clamp or a specialized caliper compression tool to push the caliper piston back into the caliper. This will give you enough clearance to remove the rotor. Be careful not to damage the piston seal or boot. Some brake fluids may spray out – wear appropriate eye protection.
6. Remove the Caliper: Depending on the design, you might need to remove the caliper entirely or just loosen it enough to swing it out of the way. Usually, there are one or two bolts holding the caliper to its bracket. Once you've loosened and removed the bolts, carefully swing the caliper out of the way, ensuring it remains connected to the brake line. You might need to use a wire or bungee cord to keep it safely out of the way and prevent strain on the brake line.
7. Remove the Rotor: The rotor should now be free. It might be slightly stuck due to rust or corrosion. If necessary, gently tap it from the inside out with a rubber mallet or similar tool. Avoid damaging the rotor's surface.
8. Clean and Inspect: Clean the rotor mounting hub and inspect the rotor for damage. If it's warped or scored beyond acceptable limits, replace it.
9. Installation: Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure to lubricate the rotor mounting hub with a small amount of anti-seize compound before reinstalling the rotor. Torque all bolts to the manufacturer's specifications (found in your repair manual). Always double check that everything is properly installed and secured.
10. Bleed the Brakes (Important!): After reinstalling the caliper and wheel, you may need to bleed the brakes to remove any air that might have entered the brake lines during the process. This is crucial for proper braking performance. Consult your repair manual for the proper bleeding procedure.
Disclaimer: This information is for guidance only. Improper brake work can be extremely dangerous. If you are not comfortable performing this repair, take your vehicle to a qualified mechanic. Always refer to your vehicle's repair manual for specific procedures and torque specifications.
