You’ve parked in the driveway, turned off the radio and headlights, and took the key out of the ignition. Just as you were about to step out of the vehicle, you heard a noise coming from the door. A quick investigation leads you to the cause – speakers are creating noise, despite the vehicle being turned off.
Bad grounding is the most common cause of speaker noise, but it could also be a symptom of damaged speaker wires and other electrical problems.
Disconnecting the speaker system entirely is out of the question – it’s the only entertainment system the driver can enjoy, but also serves to transmit guidance from the GPS and take on phone calls. Instead, we’re going to look into easy fixes for speakers that are making noise when the car is turned off.
If you’re facing the opposite problems, where the stereo has power but there’s no sound coming from the speakers – we’ve got a comprehensive guide on how to identify and solve the problem here.
Whining noise, or alternator whine is caused by bad grounding, with the noise further amplified by the stereo system. To fix this problem, you’ll need to look for a bad ground wire in the whole stereo system. Identifying the bad wire may take you a while, but the upside is that this method won’t cost you more than the price of a multimeter tool, and a soldering iron.
If the noise is coming out of a single speaker, you’re in luck. Use a flathead screwdriver to gently remove the speaker cover, then take a look at the two wires connected to the speaker. The black wire represents the ground, and if it’s loosely connected or completely separated from the speaker, you’ll need to reattach it.
Turn on the soldering iron and let it heat up while you use the wire stripper to expose more metal on the ground wire. The next step is a bit complicated, as it requires you to hold the ground wire in place, solder wire over it, and use the soldering iron like a pen to melt the soldering wire and create a connection. If you can’t find anyone to assist you, work slowly to attach the ground wire in the right place, then melt more soldering wire to secure the connection.
Once you’ve ruled out the speakers, you’ll have to check the stereo head unit and the amplifier. The amp is usually located in the trunk of the vehicle and is relatively easy to gain access to. Inspect the wires, and reattach or solder them if necessary.
Working with the head unit is another story. If you’ve got an older vehicle or an aftermarket stereo system, getting the head unit out shouldn’t be too much of a challenge. The stereo’s anti-theft system prevents you from simply pulling out the head unit, so you’ll need to get the right tools for the job. Once you’ve gained access to the back of the head unit, check if all the wires are connected correctly, then put it back in.
I do not recommend DIY repairs on stock multimedia systems, especially the more modern ones. Head units have evolved from simple stereo devices to full-fledged computers with a wide range of use. The downside is that it also includes all the delicate components and complexity of a computer, and you’re very likely to get in over your head if you try to work on it. Leave the inspection of the modern head units to a professional electrician.
Corroded or damaged speaker wires are almost unheard of. I’ve had a number of oldtimers with varying degrees of rust, but none had any issues with speaker wiring. I would recommend reviewing all other causes of speaker noise before investigating the wiring not only because it’s a very rare cause, but also because of how difficult it is to identify.
Aside from checking the wires visible through the speaker slots, on the amplifier, and the back of the head unit, you won’t be able to see the rest of the wiring without taking off interior panels, something that I highly advise against. Like I said before, bad wires are extremely unlikely, and you’d be better off paying a professional to identify the cause than to waste the time and effort chasing a bad wire that may not even be there.
Noise coming from a single speaker can be attributed to bad grounding or a failing speaker. If the problem persists after you’ve resoldered the wires and checked the amplifier and head connections, try disconnecting it entirely. Replacing car speakers is really easy – simply screw the new one in place and solder the wires back on.
Loose connections are the most common cause of static noise, as they result in poor grounding. Check the accessible connectors and wiring in your stereo system to find the loose connection and reattach the wires, or solder them back on.
Static noise on its own isn’t necessarily bad for speakers, but the underlying issue typically is. Loose connections and bad wiring can cause a number of problems over time, so it’s best to identify and fix them as soon as possible.
Crackling and popping sound is a symptom of an interrupted electrical current. A bad ground connection causes static noise, while a bad live wire connection causes crackling. As both can cause damage to the car’s stereo system, I strongly recommend finding and resoldering the loose wires.
Most causes for speaker noise when the car is turned off have simple solutions that do not require a lot of skill or electrical knowledge. Equipped with a $15 multimeter and a soldering iron, you can look for a bad connection and fix it in just a few minutes. If you’d like to learn more about vehicle electrical systems and how to fix them, keep reading our articles!
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